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我們今天要談的是東京各家餐廳的清酒,著重於清酒單或選用的詳情,及點酒的方式。

此文概述了如何高明選擇清酒:

有些餐廳為他們的清酒單下盡苦心。然而這酒單是無法預測的,像有些基本酒款會長期列於酒單上,直到餐廳老闆或侍酒師決定不再使用為止。有些可能是僅供應一段短暫時間的特別版。某些來自特定釀酒廠的清酒可能易於取得,另外有些則像是夢幻逸品,這種清酒的庫存量取決於許多變數,例如季節、釀酒廠生產的箱數、配銷、全國性需求,而在某些情況下要想喝到一杯,難如贏得樂透彩券。

這樣一方面很刺激有趣,但同時也可能會令人受挫。你可能在ㄧ個月內造訪同一家餐廳,清酒單就出現變化。有時你甚至看不到酒單,因為餐廳可能認為前來日本的遊客對清酒當地品牌不熟悉,或採購到的酒款經常在變化。他們建議你飲用的清酒,可能是基於口味、調性,甚至只是週轉(或減少)庫存的手段。

你在各家餐廳所能見到的

有些餐廳備有清酒單,有些則無。就我的經驗及迄今觀察所見而言:

- 清酒選單大多數以日文(大部份為漢字)書寫。如果你能讀而且知道清酒的名稱,也知道所屬的地區(縣份),也許會比較容易點酒。

- 很少的餐廳會有英文清酒選單。例如鮨鈴木 Sushi Suzuki 就有英文寫的酒精飲料選單給遊客看,但僅限於翻譯出清酒名稱。如果你不熟悉此領域,要想瀏覽這份酒單也會令人生畏。

- 有些餐廳由於其規模不大,在菜單上只有很有限的清酒選項。這有一大部份是受限於儲存空間,也與他們的酒類選擇政策有關(可能選擇備有更多的啤酒、燒酒或甚至葡萄酒而非清酒)。也可能有不在菜單上的清酒,但除非你真的知道這些酒並指名點選,否則不會提供給遊客,或列於特殊菜單上。
舉一個極端的例子,在上次造訪新橋清水 Shimbashi Shimizu 時,只有一種清酒可以點。

- 不少的高檔無菜單壽司餐廳,基於周轉庫存,及名牌罕見清酒供應量不定的緣由,而沒有清酒單。特地列印在未來一兩天便需要改變內容的清酒單更是吃力不討好。以下幾間知名餐廳就是如此:黑崎 Kurosaki、藏六雄三 Zoroku Yuzan、壽司難波 Sushi Namba、匠進吾 Takumi Shingo、秦野佳樹 Hatano Yoshiki、丸福壽司 Sushi Marufuku 等等。擁有多樣存貨而且態度認真、考慮周詳的地方,通常會有廣泛調性與風格的酒款,來滿足不同飲酒層級與經驗的人。這樣才有強化顧客體驗的彈性。

- 有些餐廳以專售特定釀酒廠的產品而非常聞名。例如:器樂亭 Kirakutei(久我山站)與其供應商擁有特殊關係,備有一些你在東京零售店幾乎買不到的罕見而今 Jikon 清酒。串駒 Kushikoma(關東煮居酒屋)和赤鬼 Akaoni(清酒吧/居酒屋)有一些十四代 Juyondai,這兩家店特別受到來自日本以外的十四代愛好者歡迎。最後還有玉蔥屋 Tamanegiya 的磯自慢 Isojiman(如果你和常客一同前往,或許能品嚐到很特殊的大吟釀,一切仰賴於店主有什麼而定)。

- 一些餐廳會論杯或論壺來賣清酒。有些會細分至提及一杯倒到約 90 毫升或 180 毫升的價格。或者是一杯會被寫為一「合」。四「合」相當於通常的一瓶 (720 毫升)。你很少能買一整瓶的清酒,大部分餐廳想要提供多種變化,在整段用餐體驗中嘗試不同清酒也別有樂趣。

- 在許多較小的清酒專門吧和社區式居酒屋中,不妨請店主或服務生幫你倒他們推薦的清酒。這其實是一種更為有趣而且隨興的探索方式,因大部份員工的清酒更為平價、新鮮且有著快速的庫存/存貨週期、同時兼容並蓄(以及正當時令)。如果你非常幸運,遇到店主或服務生也是同好(有時到了成痴或「御宅」程度),他們會想到別出心裁的方式,創造出更佳的搭配或體驗(如試喝熱的清酒或是端出在適當條件下保存的比通常更久的清酒)。

如何在餐廳中探索清酒:

如想要在高檔餐廳中有一次極致的品酒體驗,可在經由禮賓服務要求預約時請他們事先告知餐廳,找個能和你溝通的人來協助清酒的推薦介紹。

如你已經熟悉清酒領域,接下來可事先研究餐廳。如果是知名又有多人光顧的餐廳,很有可能會在 tabelog 或 instagram 等平台上找到清酒愛好者上傳的照片〔用地理標記 geotag 搜尋〕。舉天本 Amamoto 為例,許多飲用者已經上傳所有清酒的拼貼照片。如果其中有你想試喝的清酒,你可以依據 tabelog(或社交媒體)的現有上傳照片來詢問是否有賣,或有沒有類似的酒款。

如果店家沒有清酒單,你只能在點酒時說「請給我清酒」(或 sake onegaishimasu 及 nihonshu osusume onegaishimasu - 請倒給我你推薦的清酒)然後告訴他們分量多少,或是否想嘗試其他選項。此時餐廳完全不了解你的口味,你也不知道他們有什麼酒。這可能會是個有趣的過程,因此試著去享受它!況且,如果是在高檔餐廳中,你永遠想不到是否會遇上一生難逢的機會,試喝到一些夢幻逸品!你也可以在新光顧的任何餐廳這樣做,包含專門的清酒吧餐館。如果運氣好,業主說不定是個清酒痴或是經過認證的清酒侍酒師(唎酒師),能幫忙引導你找到能與菜餚搭配的清酒。將每一口品嚐的清酒視為一次學習機會及獨特的際遇,這也是訓練您味覺的極佳方式!同時在品嚐過程中間要記得喝水或茶。

你也可以請教侍酒師或店主(在較為傳統的日本餐廳中,負責的經理/女將,通常也會負責清酒)來提供建議。

如果你能告知自己的口味可能會有幫助。你喜歡較乾的清酒(辛口)、較甜的(甘口)還是更加以鮮味為重點(旨口)的呢?或者是有沒有喜愛的品牌,如果英語溝通不是問題的話,這對於選酒會有很大幫助。你也可以告知你喜愛的是純米、純米吟釀、純米大吟釀還是大吟釀,然後讓餐廳來為你做決定。
此舉的缺點是,可能點的清酒合乎你口味,卻不是最搭菜餚的,視你的餐點而定,有些清酒的調性會比其他清酒配合的更好。

當你拿到清酒時:

通常一整瓶清酒會被拿到你的餐桌或吧台前倒酒。希望你在剛入座時已取得拍照取可。為酒瓶拍一張照片當作紀念。這樣做也有助於作為未來參考,記錄嘗試過的酒款,以便下一次協助餐廳來幫你選擇清酒。別忘了要拍不同角度的照片,因為有時某個單一角度可能沒顯示出更有用的說明或資訊。有些酒瓶在背面標籤上有更多細節,所以不妨為背面也拍張照片!

如果只得到一杯酒而沒附上酒瓶,你可以要求看一下酒瓶(如你已獲得允許可為菜餚拍照,也可要求為酒瓶拍張照片。餐廳應該早就習以為常,不會將此視為困擾)。多數可拍照的餐廳也知道某些清酒具有高知名度與死忠粉絲,因此也見怪不怪了。

敬請享用,乾杯!

作者:ChuToroZuke

ChuToroZuke 熱愛日本料理和日本文化,至今記得 6 歲年幼時的壽喜燒初體驗,尤其是壽喜燒牛肉沾生雞蛋,配一碗日本米飯吃下肚,這樣神奇的組合讓他印象深刻。時間經過許多年,4 年前的一個晚上,已經成年的他在最愛的餐廳體驗到清酒配完美下酒菜和壽司的組合,大受感動,難以忘懷,因而引爆熱情,從此走上了清酒宅之路,著迷於發現清酒,以及重新發現食物與清酒的搭配。突然之間,去東京找各種餐廳(不分高低檔)嘗鮮這件事,在這幾年變得更刺激有趣了,清酒宅因此可以好好鑽研這種酒飲,還可以和同好一起享受美酒(當然還有佳餚)。
受邀為 TokyoTableTrip 寫文是一大樂趣與榮幸,他可以藉此回饋品酒圈,協助將清酒的資訊和對清酒的喜愛散播出去,以及在海外為日本國內的清酒推廣盡一份力。

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Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

This is part two of the series by Chutozozuke, a Japanese sake expert that I respect!

14 天 ago

Icon thumbup c50a5e69a172939d8f181c07defd87a40f8b5ea08aa95e4f5248647e539d2f91 Like!
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User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

guest

would you be able to recommend any of your favorite sake shops to purchase sakes?

13 天 ago
User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

ChuToroZuke

@guest for out of town visitors, it is always a pleasure to visit the big name department stores to start. Current favorites include the sake section in the basement levels of Takashimaya (Shinjuku), Isetan (Shinjuku), and even though it is small I have taken a fondness to Tokyu Food Show (Shibuya) as the atmosphere gets very lively overall in the evenings. Chance are if you go on certain afternoons or early evenings, you may see rotating exhibits where you actually get to taste sake from a particular brewery before you buy (perfect opportunity!) and this applies to all of the places. You might also encounter a regional (outside of Tokyo) brewery whose production is high quality but very small, meaning they do not export. If you like it enough and have room in your luggage space, I would recommend buying it immediately before the exhibit rotates out, as it may not be likely you will find it again.

Kimijimaya (Ginza, Ebisu in the Atre building where there is a Shake Shack on the ground level, and Yokohama) is a very famous and respected sake shop that also sells shochu, umeshu, and some wine. They have some cult brands, as well as many high quality but low production and seasonal offerings. You can also go to the bar section and pay for tastings of specific sake, although most of these will be written in Japanese/kanji (if you can find an English speaking employee to help, that would be great). The bar also sells some snacks/food.

Hasegawasaketen - there are several locations, but the one in Kameido is the largest. Although some of the top of the line super expensive bottles might also be found in the Tokyo Station location (I believe you need to insert your subway pass to access the area). The one in Omotesando Hills is smaller, but they also have a bar where you can pay to taste some sake and nibble on some food.

Suzuden (Yotsuya) - it's literally right next door to Sushi Sho (original location). Cash only. They have an adjacent business where you can purchase small plates of food to have with sake, but I have never tried. There are about two additional freezer/cold storage rooms with even more sake, though a good portion are 1.8 L sized bottles.

Let me know if you are looking for bottles of a particular brewery in Tokyo sake shop. It can be a maze to find something specific.

13 天 ago
User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

guest

thanks for sharing some of the places, Im sure it would be useful when i come back to tokyo again.

I just came back from sapporo and bought some bottles back from this shop which seems to have limited releases frequently, is there a similar shop in tokyo which stocks these label? :https://www.instagram.com/sakuramoto_shop/

Would you happen to come across this brewery before? :結城酒造株式会社

10 天 ago
User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

ChuToroZuke

@guest the shop you linked to instagram carries a selection of fairly popular brands in Japan but are also limited, smaller production. No two shops have similar inventories at all (there will be overlaps in some areas), so you can probably approach almost all of the shops I mentioned already to find what you want. There was a limited Christmas release (of Aramasa) not long ago but it must have sold out at a lot of places.

結城酒造株式会社 Yuki Shuzo - looking this up it is a sake brewery from Ibaraki prefecture. I have seen it around but never tasted their offerings. They have two product lineups <結ゆい> (yui yui) and <富久福>(fuku fuku). A quick search shows that Hasegawa Saketen carries two of the yui yui sake but it is not clear which store will (if Kameido doesn't have it, try Omotesando and Tokyo Station).

https://www.hasegawasaketen.com/eshop/products/list?name=%E7%B5%90%E3%82%86%E3%81%84

10 天 ago