Tokyo Table Trip

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在《清酒志》第 4 卷中,我們將推薦一些在東京方便購買及品嚐清酒的零售店。每家店都非常獨特,擁有各自的酒種庫存,樣式、處理方式與陳設也各不相同。

較小的地方商店通常不接受信用卡(僅現金),而且員工可能不太精通英語。較大的商店,尤其是百貨商店的地下樓層比較有機會能以英語溝通,但同一瓶酒的價格可能就比其他地方高。如果您在正確的樓層出示護照和收據,或許有資格能退稅,如果您有需求,他們還可以將您購買的商品包裹起來以便運送。

這份名單是給不同清酒等級愛好者的一般性指南,絕非全面性的。

名單的先後次序沒有特別意義。

1. 鈴傳 —四谷

這家傳奇的清酒商店成立於 1850 年,受到業內許多人士的推崇,且僅在 Sushi Sho Yotsuya 本店右側的幾步之遙,因此,如果您剛好在那吃午餐,或在晚餐之前抵達,千萬要去鈴傳看看!您會在一樓的冰箱中看到許多不同的清酒,還有一些放在外面的酒種(未冷藏)。由於這家商店也為餐廳供應酒,因此出售較多的 1.8 公升瓶裝酒,而某些特定類型的酒只有這種大容量的選項。一般來說,較為亮眼的酒款會存放冰箱中,從高端稀有酒款到季節性酒款都有。千萬不要錯過樓下的走入式冰櫃(大約 2 或 3 個獨立存儲區),瀏覽更多的酒款(還可以炎熱的夏季輕鬆降溫)。鈴傳也有一些中階的選項,而且他們的庫存經常變動。商店一側還有一個販售清酒與立式酒吧菜餚的空間,應該是下午開始營業。當酒吧客人非常多的時候,您可能會看到顧客將食物帶到商店裡享用,有許多適合搭配清酒的許多小菜。這家商店似乎只能付現,所以請確保帶有足夠的現金。店內的員工可能不太會說英語,建議您,若已有確定想購買清酒,再前來。

網址:http://suzuden-sake.com/
地址:日本 160-0004 東京都新宿區四谷1丁目 -10

2. 高島屋Times Square —新宿

前往地下樓層,在靠近葡萄酒和香檳區附近,就能找到清酒區。一些最受尊崇的高級品牌和產品都可以在這裡找到。更高級和最昂貴的酒款會在冷藏區。您可能還會發現一些僅由高島屋獨家銷售的酒款(例如:龍力)。有時候,他們還會設立攤位,展示特定酒造的各款清酒,您可以在購買前免費品嚐。如果服務人員剛好會說英語,或剛好高島屋的員工正幫忙他們倒酒,您就有機會與酒造代表互動了。如果您真的喜歡自己試喝的酒,請不要猶豫,買下去吧!攤位的銷售期可能很短(尤其是如果是地區酒造和產品)。日本橋也有一間高島屋,但我個人更喜歡且推薦新宿的分店。如果您有時間,兩個地點都值得拜訪,因為他們的庫存稍有不同。

網站:https://www.takashimaya-global.com/en/stores/shinjuku/
地址:日本 151-0051 東京都澀谷區千代谷5丁目 -24-2

3. 伊勢丹 —新宿

類似於新宿高島屋,清酒區位於地下樓層,還有附設一間酒吧,可以品嚐特選清酒,但應該需要付費。伊勢丹擁有高島屋所沒有的一些品牌和酒款,但也有一些重複的品項。同樣地,根據時程表,有時幾乎每週他們都展示至少一家酒造;尤其是在非釀造的季節,常會有代表駐店倒酒,且備有一些樣酒供顧客品嚐,有時某些酒造只會去一家大百貨公司,而不會去另一家。

網站:https://isetan.mistore.jp/store/shinjuku/foreign_customer/index.html
地址:日本 160-0022 東京新宿區新宿3丁目 -14-1

4. 銀座 Imadeya(Ginza Six 地下2樓)—銀座

Imadeya 起源於千葉縣,而其位於 Ginza Six 地下二樓的銀座分店真的是清酒愛好者的夢想園地。雖然墨田區應該有另一間分店,不過 Ginza Six 是最新開幕,方便遊客造訪的分店。店內商品的陳設相當好,易於瀏覽,且大多數員工似乎都會說英語。品項的廣度與深度令人讚嘆,其中包括許多熱門與廣受追捧(更不用說限量生產)的酒款,包括第 3 卷中提到的一些(必嚐的 16 款清酒),除了十四代和某些特定的酒種。通常,這些酒款都存放在冰箱中,因此購買後要小心處理並妥善存放。這裡的服務品質很棒,而收銀區旁有一個區域,可以在這裡付費品嚐他們所提供的東西。銀座 Imadeya 還庫存了一些非常昂貴的高級清酒,價格可高達十萬日圓,是稀有清酒超級粉絲的完美禮物。如果您只有時間拜訪幾間清酒商店,那此處應作為首選。

網址:http://www.imadeya.co.jp/shops/ginza/
Ginza Six 的地址:日本 104-0061 東京都銀座6丁目 -10-1(Imadeya 位於地下2樓)

5. 長谷川清酒專賣店 —日本橋、東京站 GranSta、表參道

這是另一家非常著名的清酒專賣店,擁有來自日本各地著名酒造的多種選擇,除非您想找的酒造極度沒有名氣且產量極小,否則應該能在這裡找到想要的酒。我強烈建議您前往龜戶分店,雖然對於許多訪客來說非常的遠,但是那裡的選擇最多也最廣。日本橋分店是最新開幕的分店,在品項上可能比西麻布和表參道的分店要多,還有一些在清酒鐵粉中非常受歡迎的樣酒。長谷川清酒專賣店在日本橋和表參道之丘的分店都設有酒吧,您可以付費品嚐清酒(每天的酒單都不同),不幸的是,清酒酒吧只提供日文菜單。如果您無法去龜戶分店,日本橋分店將是次佳的選擇。

含地址資訊的網址:https://www.hasegawasaketen.com/shop_zh.html

6. 君嶋屋 —銀座、惠比壽

君嶋屋有三個分店:橫濱、銀座和惠比壽(位於車站附近的 Atre 大樓)。您可以付費試喝大約 90 毫升的酒,但要視供應情況和所開的品項而定,菜單也只有日文,不過,有時冒險是會得到回報的,如果您很幸運,有些試喝品項是店內沒有販售的超級稀有酒款。您可能會在這裡找到一些有趣的區域性清酒歀,而且銀座和惠比壽分店也有少量的葡萄酒(主要是法國葡萄酒),還有一些專門為君嶋屋製作的酒款(例如桝田酒造和龍力 ),是您無法在其他任何地方找到的。

網址:https://kimijimaya.co.jp/
銀座的地址:日本 104-0061 東京都中央區銀座1丁目 -2-1 紺屋ビル 1FL
惠比壽 (Ebisu) 的地址:日本 150-0022 東京都涉谷區惠比壽南 1(Atre 大樓西翼4樓)

7. 伊勢五本店 —中目黑地區的旗艦店

這間是伊勢五的旗艦店,雖然不像其他店那麼大,但是所有商品非常整齊地排放。需要冷藏的酒款,都整齊地放至冰箱中保管直到顧客購買。他們有一些比較中階的選擇,而且應該有一個品嚐酒吧區,大概下午才開始營業。如果您在中目黑地區,請來看看。

網站:http://isego.net/
地址:日本 153-0042 東京都目黑區青葉台1丁目 -20-2

8. 東急Food Show(地下樓層)—澀谷

從 JR 澀谷站一出來,就能找到東急美食秀並進入地下樓層。酒類區毗鄰著超市區,在您到達該區域之前,有時候清酒酒造代表,會在一個很小的區域擺攤,從販售的酒造產品組合中挑選一些酒款,讓您有機會在購買前免費品嚐。通常,這些試酒品項不會在東急美食秀清酒區出售,因此,如果您願意,可以在此處購買後再到收銀台付費。萬一有您喜歡、覺得很棒又超實惠的酒款,千萬不要錯過那個機會,一旦攤位撤了,可能就無法再購買了。雖然東急美品秀的清酒選項較少,但這裡有一些很有意思的酒款,還能探索此樓層的美食、特產和超級市場。

網址:https://www.tokyu-dept.co.jp/toyoko/foodshow/
地址:日本 150-0002 東京都澀谷區2丁目 -24-1

9. 新潟土產直銷商店 (N'Espace) —表參道

新潟清酒粉絲限定。這家店不僅備有新潟的各種農產品、小吃和紀念食品,而且從知名生產商到一些較小的區域性生產商,也都為他們提供了相當不錯的新潟清酒選項。在這裡,沒有太多稀有的高級酒款,但卻有一些大型店家裡沒有的,有趣且價格合理的酒款。

網站:https://www.nico.or.jp/nespace/
地址:日本 150-0001 東京都澀谷區神宮前4丁目 11-7

10. Mitsuya 酒專 —西荻漥

這是約翰岡特(John Gaunter)推薦的商店,約翰岡特是最早的著名清酒教育家和日本清酒先鋒之一。這裡有許多中小型區域性生產商所釀造的清酒、燒酒、葡萄酒,甚至還有一些陳年清酒(如果剛好有存貨的話)。這間專門店專為清酒鑑賞家所設計,有著許多精心挑選的酒款,推薦給知道自己在尋找什麼的進階酒客。

網址:http://sake-mituya.com/html/products/product.php
地址:日本 167-00532 東京都杉並區西荻南2丁目 -28-15

11. 住吉酒販—東京Midtown日比谷

住吉是福岡市非常有名的清酒商店,自然而然地,他們提供著該地區及佐賀縣的各式清酒及產品,另外還有九州 / 北九州地區的紀念品。此店是 Sushi Namba Hibiya 用餐前後的好去處。至於一些較受追捧的清酒(例如有時會有較昂貴的鍋島酒款),住吉分店的價格甚至可能比福岡分店還高。在此,也有機會找到一些其他知名酒造的頂級清酒(例如澤屋松本的守破離)。

網址:https://www.hibiya.tokyo-midtown.com/jp/restaurants/80300/
主要網站:http://sumiyoshi-sake.jp/
中城日比谷地址:日本 100-0006 東京都千代田區有楽町 1 丁目 -1-2 (B1)

此名單只列出眾多清酒商店中的一小部分,但對清酒新手來說,這是一份很棒的入門購買指南。

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Menchikatsu

Adding a little to the previous conversation about glassware below. @ChuToroZuke @Shi

It came back in my memory, that last year I bought something called an 'Usuhari daiginjo glass'. It's a thin lantern shaped glass, with a little stem like protrusion moving inwards from the bottom of the base. One of the really enjoyable things about it, is how light it feels in your hand.

I was wondering if you might have any comments on how this glass helps to capture aroma, taste, etc... Or if the little point sticking up really does anything at all.

Here are photos on google:
https://www.google.com/search?q=usuhari+daiginjo+glass&client=firefox-b-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjUw6uo2NnmAhW6HjQIHTvGBHYQ_AUoAXoECAwQAw&biw=1215&bih=777

24 天 ago

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Shi

Oh that's quite an interesting design, I'm also curious as to the function of the centre spike! Have you had an opportunity to try compare it with other glasses when trying a daiginjo?

Funnily enough my sister got me a christmas present of a daiginjo glass as well:
https://kimuraglass.net/product/tasaki-sake-daiginjo-whisky-4oz/

Sadly, I haven't had a chance to open a daiginjo to try it out yet. The shape does seem to resemble your Usuhari glasses though sans the centre protrusion.

24 天 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

@Shi , actually I bought it as a gift for a friend. But now, I'm thinking of getting one for myself!

The glass you got for Christmas reminds me of the ones some bars use for whisky.

Also, I'm quite interested in finding that Riedel you mentioned last time. I bring back several cups with me from Japan, on every trip.

23 天 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

@ChuToroZuke
So I have BS日テレ on my TV. And I just stumbled upon a show called Furuhata Maeda Enishi Sake 古畑前田のえにし酒. Basically, these two cute hosts walk around different neighborhoods, and check out places to drink. This episode was in Shimbashi. They went to a place called Sake dokoro Ame 酒どころ海美. I thought it was kind of a silly show, judging by the appearance of the two girls the show's named after (one's a pop idol group member, and the other a seiyuu voice actress). But when the proprietress brought out the Toyobijin and Juyondai for them, I started to think, they're not messing around!

Here's the link for the show, and the izakaya they went. I think the place specializes in sake pairings. Perhaps you might enjoy getting into this show.
https://www.bs4.jp/enishizake/
https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13162276/

23 天 ago
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ChuToroZuke

Yeah I have an Usuhari Daiginjo glass, first tasted with it as a friend had it. Those things are light and very fragile. It works quite nicely with Junmai Daiginjo and Daiginjo sake, and depending on the profile accentuates rice umami flavors quite incredibly, whether the sake overall drinks masculine or feminine. Might still want to use it along with a Chardonnay wine glass as it may not be the best depending on the brew (or Burgundy if a long term low temperature fermented/aged Junmai Daiginjo).

Thanks for the link to the TV show, too bad no full episodes are available for streaming.

23 天 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

It's nice to know that Usuhari glass is not just for show. Really well crafted I think.

If you're looking for it, just for reference. On bilibili, but you can find the episode if you search: 191229 古畑前田のえにし酒 ep11
The sake izakya in Shimbashi is the first half. The Toyobijin is brought out during the 5 minute mark, and Juyondai around 10 minute.

(I'm not sure if that website is doing anything to conflict with Japan tv contracts, but as a person in Japan who already has BS included in their tv package, I think it should be acceptable to rewatch.)

23 天 ago

Menchikatsu

Not to bombard you, as I've just written back below, in reply to your Nytimes sake article link. But I was looking back to a thread I messaged Saito-san a month back, and found that you replied me, but I might have missed it.

Allow me to paste it here, with a few questions.


"...allow me to throw one recommendation for kappo kaiseki.

Fushikino

https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1309/A130905/13130697/

Although from the counter you likely won't see any kitchen action unlike Seizan/Aoyama Ichita. What would be very appealing at least for you, is that they specialize also in sake pairing, namely pairing specific sake with very specific dishes. Their food style is supposedly kyo-kaiseki. This is unlike at Goryukubo where if you ask for a recommended sake you get maybe a 90 mL portion to last several courses (and same for Ichita) where the pairings can be subjective and sometimes hit and miss but if anything they will make you feel good.

The tabelog score is 3.60 so that will likely deter a lot of visitors, but this shop also does warm sake using very specific ceramic vessels (the ones that look like saucers) that elevate aroma and the right amount of acidity in a great balance, and I'm sure they will serve other sake at their optimal serving temperatures depending on the brew and course to match. While I have not eaten here, this place comes highly recommended by one of the best sake bar owners in Tokyo, a friend who visited recently, as well as the okamisan of a Michelin star Japanese restaurant in LA who went there also.

This one is actually on my to try list next time I visit, but I welcome you to consider, as it could be quite off the beaten path. At least it is recognized by some sake industry folks, but still under the radar. Oh by the way, the okamisan of the LA restaurant, her husband does some wicked modern style kappo washoku (a little bit of fusion, California local ingredients where appropriate) that also matches with sake, so her endorsement to me is valid."


Well, let me say I've now added it to my folder! Haha. Fushikino, the decor certainly suits my tastes, with its den like environment. I will most certainly try to go on my next trip. Kagurazaka is not out of the way, as I quite love that neighborhood. And their careful approach to pairing sake with very specific dishes, and hot sake with proper ceramic vessels/temperatures, is quite appealing.

May I ask, what sake bar in Tokyo made the recommendation? I'd love to visit it too.
And in LA, which modern kappo is this? Very few places fit that description plus one Michelin star. Shibumi is one. There's also a newer 1 star counter, Hayato, who actually trained at Goryukubo you've mentioned above.

大约一个月 ago

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ChuToroZuke

One of the answers will be part of Sake Chronicles Volume 5, I'd rather save the material for that. The modern kappo would be Shunji Japanese cuisine (people love the sushi, but the strengths are more in the cooked dishes). I've been to Hayato as well.

大约一个月 ago
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Shi

Hopefully not derailing too far off the subject but I'm curious about your thoughts on Godenya in Hong Kong?

We've dined there twice and have quite enjoyed the experience where he pairs sake with various dishes with certain ones being served warm as noted above. I feel that Goshimaさん's pairings have worked quite well for us with his dishes which we have also found very tasty.

大约一个月 ago
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ChuToroZuke

@Shi Goshima san of Godenya is very well regarded amongst sake people in Tokyo. He is for sure a wizard for serving sake at the right temperature and focuses entirely on pairings with food. The type of sake he selects is very artisan jizake that connoisseurs will enjoy, but I think he also serves them so that anyone will also appreciate it. He is able to procure very eclectic brews (some of which are aged possibly by himself). His brother runs the kitchen and my friends who have visited said it is some of the best kappo washoku in Hong Kong. I’m also told he is also super knowledgeable, like an encyclopedia, whether it be sake, food, culture. He did a collaboration earlier this year with one of the Cantonese fine dining seafood restaurants for sake pairing, that would have been fun.

It is on my to visit list.

大约一个月 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

No problems at all @Shi , always good to hear new tips about worthwhile places in different cities. I think that sort of goes along with the bottom portion of this thread anyways.

@ChuToroZuke , good idea to wait. I'll look forward to your Volume 5 in anticipation then.

I haven't been back to Shunji in a long time, but this makes me want to go back and try it. I used to frequent the soba/snack restaurant Yabu on the same block. That intersection of Pico street is convenient for Japanese food in every direction. With nearby Sawtelle, Mitsuwa down the road, and Marukai right there. The locally famous, referral only yakiniku Totoraku is also closeby on Pico.

You've already been to Hayato! I have not yet. Do you think he's moved away from the styles he trained under, at Goryukubo and Ishikawa?

大约一个月 ago

Shi

Has anyone tried the Riedel stemware that is specifically targeted to sake? I know of two offhand, the Daiginjo and the Junmai glasses. Wondering if they make a notable difference in the experience

大约一个月 ago

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guest

ChuToroZuke uses them. He's a proper nihonshu otaku, after all.

大约一个月 ago
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ChuToroZuke

@guest, LOL. I should say "thank you!" :-D It's like when Ono Jiro called Nakazawa Daisuke a shokunin for mastering tamago, haha.

@Shi: Riedel makes two sake glasses as you mentioned already. However within those two you can also get machine made or crystal (much thinner, more fragile, but really elegant in touch/feel). Most people I've talked to say the machine and more affordable versions are sufficient.

Yes I do have the Junmai glass, and really do believe in it. However it does not work with every single Junmai....but if you like to drink muroka nama genshu Junmai, sake that has been aged, full bodied and want it to breathe quicker to release more aromas and accentuate umami, then this glass is for you. So far of all the Junmai sake I've tasted in Japan with the glass, does work really well, and even Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu, as well as If the Junmai (or Junmai Ginjo) is lighter bodied, letting it breathe too much would weaken the finish (and shorten it).

I personally have not tasted with and also do not have the Riedel Daiginjo glass. Some say it is a rip off and does little to it, and essentially you could get away with drinking a Daiginjo grade sake in a Chardonnay or Riesling glass, which it is not that far off from.
The Daiginjo glass is also offered in a version with a wine stem, and one without.

You can find these glasses easily at any Riedel shop in Tokyo, the one in Ginza near Yurakucho side will surely have it, and you can also check out some of their small sake selections (and wine) as well. However if you or anyone lives in Taipei or Hong Kong you can purchase the Riedel Junmai (and likely Daiginjo glass) there as well. Still not available in the USA yet in retail shops.

大约一个月 ago
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guest

It is also available from Amazon for $45 with free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Riedel-Vinum-Leaded-Crystal-Daiginjo/dp/B0000DC0ZJ

大约一个月 ago
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大约一个月 ago
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Shi

Thank you so much for that analysis @ChuToroZuke the breakdown and detail on all the options was very very helpful. We'll be spending time in Hong Kong, Taipei, and Japan in the next month so will keep our eyes open for the Junmai glass!

Also thank you for hunting those down for me @guest if we weren't going to be in Asia so soon I'd definitely consider alternative options

大约一个月 ago
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ChuToroZuke

@Shi, it is best that you buy it directly from Japan, and if you are going to be in Tokyo anyway then drop by any Riedel shop there so you will get the original packaging. The setback is that you will need to hand carry it on the plane and not pack it in your suitcase to ensure its safety (a large backpack would be sufficient). You can also ask if they have the two glass box set, it ends up being a little cheaper buying a pair in a box rather than one. With mail order you run the risk of not knowing the quality and packaging, and there's nothing you can do if it arrives cracked/broken. .

大约一个月 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

That Riedel junmai glass is indeed quite beautiful. It almost reminds me of the coupe glass, used for martini style cocktails these days.

大约一个月 ago
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Shi

Thank you for the advice @ChuToroZuke - we will plan on visiting the Riedel shop in Tokyo and make sure to allocate space to carry it on with us on the trip home!

大约一个月 ago

ChuToroZuke

Thank you all very much for your kinds words! There are a lot more shops out there, but this list is a nice start for sure! Watch out also for regional Japan antenna shops (each one representing a prefecture of Japan selling its unique souvenirs) as places to find some regional sake (no high end bottles for the most part). For example, there are several around the border of Ginza and Yurakucho (closer to Yurakucho side). You can find some interesting rare lower end bottles of Born, Kokuryu at the Fukui antenna shop, and don’t miss the Hyogo, Osaka, Akita, Hokkaido antenna shops inside Tokyo Akitsu Kaikan buildings for more regional fun shopping!

The sake shops I am sure will gladly appreciate all of you for any support!

大约 2 个月 ago

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Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

When you mentioned antenna shops, I completely forgot, that I have actually gone into the Yurakucho location of Kimijimaya. Didn't even know the name, until I just checked the map. Right in the middle of all those antenna/satellite shops. Went after buying my loaf of bread from Centre the Bakery. That area is one of my favorite morning walks in Tokyo.

大约 2 个月 ago
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ChuToroZuke

I believe the Ishikawa, Kochi, and Okinawa antenna shops are nearby to where you are. Although the Okinawa antenna shop is more awamori focused and I don't recall seeing any sake in there. Some of these antenna shop offerings do really sell the true jizake, not the high end brand name ones, but sake that is more local and common...some you could find elsewhere in Tokyo but some you can't, mostly at the Junmai or Junmai Ginjo (and honjozo) levels. Truly a nice walk just visiting all the various shops and area around Yurakucho, quite a lot to see! The Hyogo antenna shop apparently went through remodeling and looks more snazzy, and the Tatsuriki selection seems to have expanded, I believe there may be a sake bar in that building somewhere as well that's open in the evenings.

大约 2 个月 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

I am curious the difference between large sake makers and revered brands vs. small batch jizake. Which would be considered the higher in quality? Sometimes, when I've visited towns outside Tokyo, I've stopped into local sake stores, a few off the beaten path. Sometimes they are actually really nice shops. And they only carry stuff made nearby. I think I've been into a few in Kanazawa, Hida Takayama, and the nearby Kawagoe.

I did see last time I went to Yurakucho, there was indeed a renovated antenna store which heavily placed focus on its sake.
A sake bar in Ginza which seems to come up in a lot of foreign travel guides, is called Sake no Ana, with 160 types on hand. Right next to that wonderful classic western restaurant Rengatei. I think I will also check out the Ginza Kengyo Sake Cellar.

大约一个月 ago
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ChuToroZuke

@Menchikatsu, at that rate the answer is more subjective. The more you taste, the better your sense of preference, flavor profile proclivities, and value your money can buy, and also if you think about food pairings. No doubt large producers also make fine sake (especially high end), but small producers make equally if not sometimes more powerful and impactful brews on all sides of the spectrum and willing to push boundaries that large producers won’t to distinguish themselves.

I guess it helps if you understand the philosophy and expression the sake maker is trying for, the geography and local food culture, as well as their limitations. It’s the same thing with wine.

大约一个月 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

The range and possibilities of sake, is becoming more and more endless to me. I am actually a big supporter of the small town hero, and note a quality decline whenever beer/wine makers ramp up production. So I would hope small batch makers do the most exciting work.

I am a sorta nerd about terroir. I like to think the term goes beyond just climate & soil, into local practices and tastes. "A sense of place" really covers a lot. So I would certainly think about a town's sake in context with the daily food they live in and think about.

On another note, I noticed you sometimes compare certain sake to a Burgundy Chablis grand cru. Recently, I've been trying to sample these, along with Meursault, Pouilly Fuisse, and California chardonnay. I think the preference between fans of metal vs. oak barrels is interesting.
This general category of 'drink' is all encompassing, and you can really discover similarities different drinks have in common, when exploring from different angles.

大约一个月 ago
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ChuToroZuke

@Menchikatsu, I think the more I’ve been drinking White Burgundy and Alsace white wine recently, the less now I think the comparisons are as valid. There is more noteable sharpness from grape tartness and acidity that is different in sake, and even certain bottles when I have them side by side with white wine don’t have that similar characteristics. But I think in terms of enjoyment and to a lesser extent for pairing, you could put them together and try a food item to compare their effects. I haven’t had the pleasure to try a fresh Nama sake of a solid producer in Japan side by side with a great white wine with a similar profile just yet... but I’m sure if you used the right glassware it would be quite enjoyable for both.

大约一个月 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

Ok, I will note that the white wine to sake comparison is only valid at a certain entry level, but not as you go deeper into it.

I'd think, it's not common to see white wine served side by side with sake, to a single customer at most restaurants. Although it is acceptable and the norm in Japan, to order small pours of high end sake, it would be the bottle of white burgundy that is harder to ask for a glass. I'd think they'd ask you to buy the whole bottle, as it is in most western restaurants. And I've not seen a place where you're required to order the full bottle of sake, rather than just a glass.

Proper glassware is really a detail fan's subject, and I'd like to see it come up more. Sometimes, when a Japanese restaurant offers you a choice between what little pottery/ceramic sake cups to use, I wonder if I chose the wrong one... or if they aren't even offering the best option. I wonder the implications of sake, of trapping the aroma in a glass, as they do for wine.

大约一个月 ago
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ChuToroZuke

@Menchikatsu, that is correct. It's much simpler to pour a village level Chablis or Bourgogne ("Burgundy Blanc") literally table wine by the glass and let its sharp acidity have enough power to do really simple effective pairings. It's much lower cost to a restaurant to do a pairing that way. Same for Sancerre, Pouilly Fuisse, Pouilly Fume (except for the higher end pricey bottles). Of the places that do Chassagne or Puligny Montrachet by the glass, expect a higher price point for it.

There's so much to learn about different glassware. A trained certified wine sommelier who has a taste for sake might be able to approximate the right glass. I'm not a huge fan of some of the ceramic cups for sake in Japanese sushi restaurants in America, and depending on the sake, in general most white wine or Chardonnay glasses would work, but depending on the structure of the sake, a wine glass could accentuate a certain sake's weakness or a profile you don't want accentuated. It takes a lot of knowledge, wisdom, and experience to determine what's the best case....so trial and error learning is best. But this is all moot if a restaurant sells sake by the glass but the rate of attrition for the bottle is uncontrolled, you ask for a wine glass to give it a bit more surface area to breathe for a bottle that has been opened for a while, and you pretty much let any residual aromas escape... so maybe that kiriko is better or that shorter ceramic glass (hard to say then).

大约一个月 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

I'd love to have more of the nicer Montrachets at all. Though I probably won't come across it in a restaurant, unless part of a very nice course menu wine pairing. How much a glass of Leflaive or Leroy would even cost... probably the entire budget for dinner.

I did happen to be treated to some nice sakes tonight, at the hands of a veteran sommelier. He poured me by default, sake using a wine glass. So it's nice to see some progress on this side of the world towards sake. They keep some ceramic cups on hand as an option. I sampled the Niwa no Uguisu 50, a yamahai, and a few others.

Combining the subjects of a) wine glass shape affecting a sake's taste + b) and pairing with the right food, this really becomes very complicated! It must take some great intuition to know exactly which glass goes best with the sake, which pairs best with a certain dish. So there is no substitute for experience when things gets this advanced. And I would hope whoever is in charge of the sake, is actually tasting the bottle after opening.

大约一个月 ago
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ChuToroZuke

@Menchikatsu Leflaive has a sub label Olivier Leflaive, and they also have village level wine akin to honjozo or futsushu, Macon and Pouilly Fuisse (of course the PF is at least x2 to x3 a typical PF). I don't think Grand Cru level will ever be offered by the glass, at most it would be 1er Cru but certainly not Leflaive or Leroy kind of brands.

Last I checked September 2018, Esquisse Ginza had Okuyokawa Tatsuriki Dragon
Kimoto Junmai Daiginjo by the glass. Not unicorn, but it was an interesting choice.

Speaking of sake in wine glasses:

https://www.nytimes.com/paidpost/jfoodo/is-sake-the-new-white-wine.html

大约一个月 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

If I ever saw a premier cru of that high reputation offered by the glass (at a reasonable price) I would jump at the chance to have with dinner.

I've heard Esquisse is getting better and better, as he continues to refine and improve his cooking. It's always been on my radar, right next to L'Effervescence.

On the topic of this article you've linked, I've actually had the lucky fortune of visiting a few of these restaurants.

I did not know Orsa & Winston had such a strong sake program, I would like to return, and sit at the counter, where it's a difference menu from tables. I like where the beverage director notes about wine glasses: “You also have the opportunity of smelling the sake first. We want it to be equated to that same full-sensory wine experience.” And that he refers to sake as what pairs best here.

The Rappahannock oyster bar part is interesting, the idea of drinking sake from an empty shell. I twice dined in front of the previous chef, at his two LA restaurants, before he left for Detroit, to start a modern izakaya called Antihero. Quite a forward thinking guy, quite skilled. I noted his preferences much resemble the very publicized Le Pigeon in Portland.

Cosme is especially interesting to see, being that their food is modern Mexican. But maybe not so surprising, being that ceviche is essentially a highly dressed citric sashimi, much like Italian crudo.

It's nice to see more and more high profile American restaurants, exploring the possibilities of sake in their restaurants, and educating new diners to the possibilities.

大约一个月 ago

Shi

Very enlightening will definitely reference this during our upcoming trip! Thanks ChuToroZuke and Saito!

大约 2 个月 ago

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