Tokyo Table Trip

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炸豬排是一道僅需 JPY¥1,000~2,000 就能享用的平民美食,但一塊優質炸豬排能帶來的滿足感,是言語不能形容的。我之前就提過 Manger,但這次將分享更多細節,以及菜單上更頂級的選項。由於餐廳位於一般旅客的路線之外,所以沒有什麼國際饕客評論過 Manger。會踏上此段炸豬排朝聖之旅的人一定也都是瘋狂的資深美食家。

Manger 的午餐時段由 11:00 到 14:00,千萬別以為可以直接入座,如果沒有提早前往,最後可能會空腹而歸(不像東京,幾乎沒有美食名店的八尾市會讓你找不到備案)。網站上表示午餐登記將於 9:00 開放,不過饕客們從 8:30 就會開始排隊,如果在 8:30 後抵達,可能只會登記到 14:00 最後的時段,或是在 80 名顧客額滿後就無法登記了。每個時段的顧客上限是因為他們對品質的堅持,以及餐廳容量的限制。晚餐時段由 17:00 開始,你也可以在早上開放登記時就預約晚上的位置,這時段就比較沒那麼競爭。我認為這兩個時段沒有太大差異,只是附近沒有可以消磨 5 個小時的地方,不如登記 17:00,就不用趕著在 14:00 前回來。

Manger 由餐廳主廚於 1996 年創立,他以極度講究的方式料理炸豬排,甚至在網站上分享了自己的炸物技巧。

豬肉擁有豐富的維他命 B1,但不同豬種也會有所差別;就像葡萄酒一樣,品種與產地都會影響品質。在 Manger 你可以品嘗到四種豬肉:
1. 來自宮崎的味豬 (Aji):100% 蔬菜飼育、不吃玉米,並飲用礦泉水。
2. 來自鹿兒島的黑豬 (Kurobuta):基本上就是伯克豬 (Berkshire),此品種生長較慢,所需的飼育時間較久。
3. 夢幻豬種 Tokyo X:特別的飼育方式造就最佳口味與維他命含量;產量非常稀少,因此被分類在夢幻等級,有點像夢幻魚種褐帶石斑 (Kue) 一樣。
4. 來自西班牙的伊比利豬:大家說快樂的豬吃起來風味較佳,這些外來客是在沒有壓力的環境中生長的。

160 克的豬排價位為:味豬 JPY¥1,840、鹿兒島黑豬 JPY¥2,390、Tokyo X 豬 JPY¥2,980,最貴的伊比利豬則是 JPY¥3,460,相較於一般 JPY¥1,000 起的平價豬排是有些差異。由於我吃過好幾次的伊比利豬排,我原本計畫將首次品嚐 Tokyo X 並與 TTT 讀者們分享,可惜在點餐時才遺憾地得知,因為 Tokyo X 太熱門了,已完售。最後我選了鹿兒島黑豬並搭配大套餐,再次回味他們的特製腰內肉。

主廚精心準備著炸豬排,我觀察到他的手法和網站上分享的一模一樣,並沒有特別留一手的秘密。接著他以 170°C 油炸並讓豬排休息兩分鐘。這段休息時間非常重要,內部的熱能依舊在烹煮著豬排,但肌肉組織中的肌紅蛋白與肉汁又不會因過長時間的加熱而流失。他的酥炸功力如教科書般完美,豬排非常多汁美味。
你可以選擇白松露鹽或黑炭鹽,我選擇了黑鹽。主廚的助手會將鹽灑在空盤上,讓你沾著豬排吃。也許他們可以直接用小托盤提供鹽,讓客人們能平均將鹽撒到豬排的表面。

他們的秘制豬排醬是由 10 種水果製成,使用如此多的原料製作醬汁是多麼地費工呀!這是我吃過最棒的豬排醬之一,口味溫和又豐富,且不會太甜,我覺得太甜的醬汁有時會很掃興。很多人在吃主餐時嘗到甜味會覺得驚訝,但有些時候,這也是絕佳的味覺搭配,如鵝肝與果醬、春捲 (haru maki) 與梅子醬、烤豬與蘋果醬、北京烤鴨與甜麵醬、韓國炸醬麵等等,我也喜歡加上一點點芥末增添風味。

雖然需要做出一番努力才能於八尾市的 Manger 用餐,我依然認為這是一家值得造訪的炸豬排餐廳,尤其是你又剛好經過周邊區域的話。建議可以在 8:30 登記 17:00 的晚餐,然後規劃附近的行程。對一般食客來說,特別規劃前往 Manger 的炸豬排之旅可能太過刻意,因為這需要耗費一整天大把的時間。

炸豬排Manger的菜單

<定番炸豬排>
◆里肌肉
120g・・・ 1,000 日圓
160g・・・ 1,260 日圓
250g・・・ 1,770 日圓
320g・・・ 2,290 日圓
380g・・・ 2,810 日圓

◆肩胛肉
170g・・・ 1,100 日圓

◆腰內肉
腰內肉炸豬排 (130g)・・・ 1,000 日圓
特級腰內肉炸豬排 (200g)・・・ 1,620 日圓
高級腰內肉炸豬排 (160g)・・・ 1,120 日圓
圓柱炸豬排 (170g)・・・ 1,460 日圓
腰內肉與洋蔥串炸 (2 串)・・・ 1,360 日圓
一口炸豬排 (110g)・・・ 980 日圓

<品牌豬肉>
◆Aji 豬
M (160g)・・・ 1,840 日圓
L (260g)・・・ 2,420 日圓

◆黑豬
M (160g)・・・ 2,390 日圓
L (260g)・・・ 2,920 日圓

◆TOKYO-X (160g)・・・ 2,980 日圓

◆伊比利 (160g)・・・ 3,460 日圓

<海鮮>
帶頭炸蝦 (1 隻)・・・ 420 日圓
炸貝柱 (1 個)・・・ 360 日圓
蟹肉奶油可樂餅 (1 個)・・・ 60 日圓

<單點料理>
鵝肝炸豬排・・・ 1,780 日圓
奢華炸豬排・・・ 1,030 日圓
起司內餡炸豬排・・・ 1,000 日圓
古岡左拉起司炸豬排・・・ 1,180 日圓
柚子胡椒炸豬排・・・ 1,100 日圓
炸生火腿貝柱腰內肉捲・・・ 800 日圓
切斯特菲爾德帶頭炸蝦・・・ 740 日圓
蒜香炸豬排・・・ 1,050 日圓


<極致炸豬排拼盤料理>
高級里肌肉炸豬排 & 特級腰內肉炸豬排・・・ 2,120 日圓
Aji 豬 & 特級腰內肉炸豬排・・・ 2,580 日圓
黑豚 & 特級腰內肉炸豬排・・・ 3,080 日圓
TOKYO-X & 特級腰內肉炸豬排・・・ 3,800 日圓
伊比利 & 特級腰內肉炸豬排・・・ 4,300 日圓


<獨家套餐料理>
◆精選套餐 A・・・ 3,100 日圓
鵝肝炸豬排 ×2 片
特級腰內肉炸豬排 ×2 片
高級里肌肉炸豬排 ×120g
香檳冰沙 ×1 份

◆精選套餐 B・・・ 3,100 日圓
天使炸蝦 ×2 隻
特級腰內肉炸豬排 ×2 片
高級里肌肉炸豬排 ×120g
香檳冰沙 ×1 份
※里肌肉炸豬排可更換
更換為 Aji 豬・・・加價・・・ 300 日圓
更換為黑豬・・・・加價・・・ 500 日圓

◆炸豬排三昧・・・ 6,600 日圓
Aji 豬里肌肉炸豬排
(可更換為鹿兒島黑豚 (260g) ・・・ +500 日圓)260g
高級里肌肉炸豬排 260g
特級腰內肉炸豬排 ×6 片


<三明治>
里肌肉炸豬排三明治 ・・・ 1,250 日圓
腰內肉炸豬排三明治 ・・・ 1,400 日圓
炸蝦排三明治 ・・・ 1,520 日圓
高級里肌肉炸豬排三明治 ・・・ 1,630 日圓
高級腰內肉炸豬排三明治 ・・・ 1,660 日圓
Aji 豬三明治 ・・・ 2,240 日圓
黑豬三明治 ・・・ 2,400 日圓

◆Tonkatsu Manger(とんかつ マンジェ)
地址:大阪府八尾市陽光園2-3-22
電話:072-996-0175
交通手段:JR関西本線「八尾」駅徒歩5分
營業時間:072-996-0175
公休日:星期一、星期二

Writer:Localtaste

「Local taste 」早在社群媒體出現之前,就開啟了尋找美食的漫長旅程,從一個城市漫遊至另一個城市,從遠東地區到西方,走過四大洲 160 個以上的城市,在過去 37 年,跋涉超過 400,000 英里的距離。
他在數千個不同的餐廳用過餐,從亞洲的一處牆洞內,一直到巴黎所有獲得米其林3星榮譽的十家餐廳,還花了幾十年的時間在追尋完美的小籠包。
由於他並非從事餐飲相關行業,也不是美食作家,因此您在別處看不到他的文章,tokyotabletrip.com 是唯一獨家刊登 Leo Saito 文章的媒體,以藉此感謝他在幫助各國旅客發掘日本料理之美所做出的無私貢獻。

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Shi

Thank you @Localtaste for the article! We may have an opportunity to try and stop by during our time in Osaka - sadly my Japanese is elementary at best, do you feel that would be an obstacle?

8 个月 ago

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localtaste

@Shi language, unlike the commute time, wouldn’t be an obstacle, in your particular case. However, if u want Tokyo x, u had better be there at least 10 mins before the queue starting time. If u go say 8:40, Tokyo X could be gone or u might end up with 1pm round. Being there later isn’t recommend as they stop once they got sold out. Yao is in a middle of nowhere with great restaurants so one good meal slot is gone.

They got English menu. You can see their menu here under photo / menu. Tonkatsu Manger
2 Chome-3-22 Yokoen, Yao, Osaka 581-0086, Japan
+81 72-996-0175
https://goo.gl/maps/wxNUX2Wrcy5apDSY8

8 个月 ago
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Shi

Sincerely appreciate the response, I will discuss it with my wife and endeavor to convince her to make the Tonkatsu pilgrimage with me!

8 个月 ago
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localtaste

It does take up almost a day if u factor in commute and waiting time. There’s nothing in Yao. I wouldn’t recommend doing so for every diner.

8 个月 ago
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Shi

Sadly on the morning I had planned to venture forth my wife vetoed the idea, perhaps next time!

6 个月 ago
Eab8dbbd 6732 4948 b852 ca447c818547

localtaste

@Shi visiting Manger Takes so much time and effort. Unless u happen to be in the area, For most tourists, both of you Might enjoy some other things more.

Another alternative plan for u is Kaiyukan + lunch at either Uemura (formal) or Yoshitora (booking is possible) or Rocking billy Super one in Amagasagki.

6 个月 ago
Eab8dbbd 6732 4948 b852 ca447c818547

localtaste

@Shi maybe you should try the new restaurant at 342 Bowery. They should open soon.

5 个月 ago
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Shi

@localtaste Thank you so much for the recommendations as well as the information regarding the new opening of 342 Bowery - unfortunately it currently looks like we won't be able to return to Japan until January of next year but I will absolutely keep your suggestions in mind and add them to our itinerary!

Thank you again for all your insight and help on our culinary crusade!

5 个月 ago
Eab8dbbd 6732 4948 b852 ca447c818547

localtaste

@Shi you’re welcome. 342 Bowery is only 6-7 stations from your place. (6 line) so you don’t need to wait til next year to enjoy great dinner. Please let me know how it goes as I decided not to return this quarter.

5 个月 ago
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Shi

@localtaste Oh interesting I didn't even consider that it was in Manhattan - though unfortunately it seems like there's been a mixup as I'm based in Atlanta and only have the opportunity to take occasional trips to NYC though when we do visit we tend to stay in the noho/lower east side/alphabet city area so will be quite convenient! If we get the opportunity to visit soon will definitely keep you posted but like so many others during this time we've been in lockdown to minimise the spread of covid.

Still truly appreciated though, when responsibility keeps us at home the correspondence here is a small solace from the outside world!

5 个月 ago

guest

Thank you for the great write up local taste. How would you compare this restaurant to Narikura (new shop) in Tokyo. Do you have a preference of either or think either one makes better/higher quality Tonkatsu?

8 个月 ago

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localtaste

I haven’t been to the new Narikura and haven’t planned so. Narikura is frying at lower temperature. The diff is the texture / color of poncho coat. Narikura got lighter color. I would describe as more feminine. When you fry at higher temp, you will get golden brown and crunchier coating which I would describe as more macho.

If u like frying at lower temp, I would recommend Narikura. Fans of low temp frying will definitely curse if they go to Yao and waste one day based on my recommendation.

Manger got truffle salt which is so aromatic. Also, the tonkatsu sauce is the best and wins other shops by landslides.

For pork, it depends on the brand of pork u choose at each shop. As for rice, almost not much differences unlike Rice at kaiseki places.

The best person to have the answer if u should visit is yourself. Each person has different criteria and assign different values to each criteria. I would give different recommendation based on each diner if I know more eg what u r looking for, your like and dislike, your experience with tonkatsu, how much u could spend on waiting, etc.

I should have mentioned truffle salt at manger. If u like truffle, it’s another reason u would like this shop. For me, I like porcini, Matsutake, maitake, morels, etc more than truffles, with the exception of tartufo bianco from alba.

Hope this helps.

8 个月 ago

guest

Thanks localtaste for the wonderful writeup!

8 个月 ago

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localtaste

Hope the writeup is helpful.

8 个月 ago

Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

Article on a tonkatsu restaurant whose popularity as one of the best tonkatsu restaurants in Japan rivals Narikura.

8 个月 ago

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