Tokyo Table Trip

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所有只接受現場候位,傑出的日本餐廳都擁有世上數一數二超長的排隊隊伍──特別是名店。雖然有些地方實施可以讓客人早上先取票,再於特定時段回來用餐的兩階段票務系統,排隊通常還是得花上 1 到 3 個小時,不過這對日本人來說並不算什麼。這讓我想起一則趣事:有對日本夫妻就是在一家親子丼名店排隊時認識彼此,後來結婚時,甚至還邀請了親子丼餐廳的老闆參加他們的婚禮,來紀念這個讓他們相遇的地方。

知名餐廳成蔵 (Narikura) 現在甚至能透過無菜單料理預約網 (Omakase) 來訂位,名額經常在短短幾分鐘內就搶購一空。很多外國人大概不能理解只是想吃一家好吃的豬排餐廳怎麼會那麼困難;我想說的是,比起排了好幾個小時的隊伍,等到快輪到時才發現賣完了,這已經算很好了。

有可能找到不用排隊的好餐廳嗎?在一個資訊普及的時代,似乎沒有什麼是不可能的。隱藏好店很快就會被發掘,原本不為人知的地方也很快就被熱衷的饕客一一征服。

去年,對喜愛炸豬排的饕客來說有一則難過又震驚的消息,位於東京台東區的「丸山吉平 (Maruyama Kippei)」主廚因意外事故住院而突然關閉。我帶著非常惋惜的心情,不斷試著找尋其他豬排餐廳,卻仍無法自拔地想念那金棕色的炸豬排。

好消息是餐廳老闆現在已經康復了。丸山吉平 (Maruyama Kippei) 於上個月底在一個新地點重新營運,距離 JR 神田站
只有一步之遙,與原來的店址只差了 1.3 公里,而原來的地方則變成另一家名為「とんかつ檍 (Tonkatsu Aoki)」的炸豬排店。這個社區在週末似乎相對寧靜許多,我飛奔到新店址後,便看到「殺不死你的都將使你更強大」這句標語,令我驚訝的是,我並沒有看到排隊人潮,我深思這是否是一個警訊,因為日本饕客都是以忠心而聞名。

店內的氛圍改變了,主廚在性格上似乎也變得更溫柔。當我走進店內,他便親切地向我和我的朋友打招呼,他變得非常親切、坦率。店裡還有其他兩位和藹的女士和一位紳士在廚房協助他。

我在自助點餐機點了腰內肉,我的朋友則點了較瘦的肋排部位,讓我能有機會品嘗不同品項。 由於晚餐時段不含白飯,所以要額外點白飯餐券。自助點餐機的聲音蠻大的,在點餐過程中還會播放音樂,不像搬家之前,店裡安靜到連一根針掉在地上幾乎都能聽到。

當我點的炸豬排剛送上桌時,豬排非常的酥脆,外皮在高溫油炸後呈現金棕色。跟成蔵 (Narikura) 低溫油炸料理最大的不同點是,成蔵 (Narikura) 的外皮如同女性般的輕盈且優雅,而丸山吉平 (Maruyama Kippei) 的風味則是相當大膽且具有男子氣概。

咬下豬排的第一口,就可以感受到整個豬肉的濃厚鮮味,每一口嘗到的肉汁都非常美味。主廚應該在他的休息期間花了很多時間重新思考與反省。我的結論是,丸山吉平 (Maruyama Kippei) 仍然是我最愛的炸豬排餐廳,他們的豬肉若不能說上第一,也稱得上是數一數二的。

一些食客可能會害怕吃下太多的脂肪,但並非所有脂肪種類都是一樣的。許多炸豬排餐廳的豬排脂肪經常油膩到讓我沒什麼食慾,還需要好幾個小時來消化油膩感,不是單靠喝水就能輕鬆解膩的。我個人覺得這裡的豬肉品質非常好,感覺應該是用優質的飼料飼養出來的。豬肉本身的風味不但豐富,而且喝點水就輕鬆解膩。尤其吃了炸豬排後,更能嚐出高麗菜的清爽鮮甜。關於油脂迷思的一個例子就是魚油,並不是所有魚類都有 Omega 3 不飽和脂肪酸,比起野生鮭魚,人工養殖的鮭魚就不怎麼算數了,富含飽和脂肪的人工養殖吳郭魚就是另一個例子。

午餐時段的炸豬排主打腰內肉部位,含白飯的價格為 1,300 日元;一份 200 克重的豬排則為 1,600 日元。由於其他餐點皆落在差不多的價格,我推薦一般晚餐可以點 200 克重的豬排。

老闆在這個新店址的新菜單上加入了炸竹筴魚和豬肉涮涮鍋。豬肉涮涮鍋必須要兩人以上才能點,且必須至少在用餐前五天親自來店預約。豬肉涮涮鍋價格為 8,000 日元起,甚至比許多牛肉涮涮鍋都還貴,不過老闆對他的豬肉涮涮鍋非常有自信,希望下次可以來品嘗看看。

我真心希望丸山吉平 (Maruyama Kippei) 可以很快在新店址獲得成功,這間店能激勵任何感到失望和絕望的人,我很高興能看到主廚以他活力充沛的樣子捲土重來,他說他在休養期間甚至夢到了自己炸豬排的模樣。對所有愛好炸豬排的人來說,這將是一個不用花上好幾小時排隊,也不用在網路上搶預約名額,就能品嘗到高級炸豬排的好機會,能輕鬆即刻入座──至少目前是這樣。在店家調整好新開張的過渡期和步調後,這裡將會再次成為頂級的炸豬排餐廳之一,到時候要光顧這間店可能就不會那麼容易了,所以在大家口耳相傳、蜂擁而至之前,建議所有 TTT 的讀者趕緊前往品嘗看看吧。

◆丸山吉平
〒101-0043 東京都千代田區神田富山町 29 號
營業時間:
星期三~五 11:00–14:00、17:00–20:00
星期日 11:00–15:00
最後點餐時間為每輪時段結束前 10 分鐘。

丸山吉平 (Maruyama Kippei) 有 Facebook 官方粉絲專頁,可前往查詢最新的平假日營業時間。

Writer:Localtaste

「Local taste 」早在社群媒體出現之前,就開啟了尋找美食的漫長旅程,從一個城市漫遊至另一個城市,從遠東地區到西方,走過四大洲 160 個以上的城市,在過去 37 年,跋涉超過 400,000 英里的距離。
他在數千個不同的餐廳用過餐,從亞洲的一處牆洞內,一直到巴黎所有獲得米其林3星榮譽的十家餐廳,還花了幾十年的時間在追尋完美的小籠包。
由於他並非從事餐飲相關行業,也不是美食作家,因此您在別處看不到他的文章,tokyotabletrip.com 是唯一獨家刊登 Leo Saito 文章的媒體,以藉此感謝他在幫助各國旅客發掘日本料理之美所做出的無私貢獻。

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Comments Icon comments 20b52f1dd59ace07b92433da2a385e6f7392eb2937032eebc2a0bd0b67c69516 7


guest

hi saito san and everyone, as i am planning to visit to marayuma kippei in february, i would like to make clear of something because from reading all the comments here it is really quite confusing.

as i will be going for lunch (on a weekday), will i be able to order the most premium and best meat that this restaurant has to offer?

according to localtaste menu picture below, it seems like it is only for weekday lunch menu, does that mean that is all there is to order for people that go on a weekday lunch?

lastly, what is the best/most premium type of tonkatsu that can be ordered here that is not overly fatty? (i see a lot of types of "rib" menu being mentioned by saito-san etc. but no idea what the difference of those are).

thank you very much

11 个月 ago

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Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

It is possible to order premium meat at lunchtime.
The premium meats are the HANA Rib Roast (5,000 yen), Kippei Rib Roast (3,900 yen), and Maruyama Rib Roast (3,900 yen). However, all three of these meats are rather fatty, so I would personally recommend 300g Rib Roast (3,000 yen) or 250g Rib Roast (2,500 yen). The tonkatsu here is best eaten with wasabi and salt, so don't forget to also order Wasabi (50 yen).

11 个月 ago
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localtaste

Here’s the link to their Facebook page so you can check opening time before you visit. Thanks to @Terrence for the opening hour alert. https://www.facebook.com/maruyamakippei/

11 个月 ago
Eab8dbbd 6732 4948 b852 ca447c818547

localtaste

@guest May I ask where u are from or what’s your cut preference? For diners from certain countries, I noticed their cut preference differs eg North American or European likes different cuts, comparing to the local people.

11 个月 ago
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Shi

I'm quite intrigued to hear about regional differences regarding preferred cuts @localtaste if you don't mind elaborating, quite interesting!

11 个月 ago
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guest

thank you for your replies saito san and @localtaste.

@saito san, so the premium meats menu list that you wrote are not at all in the menu picture that localtaste sent right? would they still be available to select on the machine in english? Also to be honest still quite confused as to what the differences are between 300g Rib Roast compared to all the other types of Rib Roast that you sent. thank you for the tip regarding to order wasabi.

@localtaste I usually prefer cuts that are leaner but with small amounts of fat (not completely without fats). do you suggest the same as saito san? order Rib Roast 300g or 250g?

11 个月 ago
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localtaste

@shi In general, people from north America like the US or Canada would prefer leaner pork. Their ham is quite lean. At most, they got pork chop, never the fatty part.

People in Europe are more diverse. In Germany, just look at their Schweineschnitzel, which is made from leaner pork. I know some people might say how about pork knuckle. In Bavaria, Schweinshaxe is loved by the local with beer. But it’s fried and the fat becomes so crisp. In Wien, they just use veal for the schnitzel, not pork at all.

In Italy, up north like Milan, Costolette Di Maiale Alla Milanese is cooked with leaner pork. In Parma, their ham starts to have some fatty part. In Toscana, Arista di Maiale Florence is less fatty, comparing to Porchetta in Rome. (Not to be confused with Pancetta. In classic Roman dish, carbonara got guanciale, cured pork jowl is also quite fatty. (Any respecatble Italian chef will be quite perplexed if someone uses bacon instead.).

In Spain, most pork are cured eg Jamón. It’s pretty much as fattiest as a Spanish would go, minus Cochinillo in Segovia. You can see the fatty pork is mostly cured meat.

For Chinese, Cantonese would get less fatty part, comparing to Zhejiang (think 東坡肉 ) or 豆油肉 (In Teochew, Fujian, or Taiwan.)

For Korean, it’s usual to enjoy pork with fat. Eg 보쌈, most American would pass out just to see the dish.

This is why I asked where the person who asked comes from. For someone from the US, I would suggest terderlion. For Korean, I would suggest hana rib roast. The more info, I could guess what u would prefer.

11 个月 ago
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localtaste

@guest when Saito san suggests anything, it’s like a diagnose by Dr Fitzpatrick, no med student in dermatology would suggest otherwise.

However, your inquiry is not an easy one. From two pics, which one does it look like a better fit?

11 个月 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

Adding on to the extensive breakdown of pork cuts by localtaste, I have an interesting one. A relative of mine, I've taken them to places like Narikura and elsewhere. Said Maisen was by far their favorite. Very sensitive to the smell of pork, and gags when walking by a tonkotsu ramen shop. They prefer the 'loin' cut for tonkatsu. That said, although they avoid eating fat, and stick to lean meat, says they love Italian lardo. People can be baffling to figure out sometimes. This type of person, rather than skip a fatty cut of meat entirely, might order it for the superior taste of the cut, but remove the fat.

11 个月 ago
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Shi

@localtaste thank you so much for that analysis of regional preferences it was quite insightful and as expected very interesting! I've grown to appreciate fattier cuts though being from America/Canada with ancestry connecting to Hong Kong (father) and Taiwan (mother) have been exposed to a lot of different flavors over the years visiting the homelands.

10 个月 ago
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localtaste

@Menchikatsu your relative preference is similar to the Italian’s and the Spanish’s then. In line with my earlier observation, pork wih fatty part there are cured. Lardo is a type of salumi, made from curing backfat and is consumed by thin fine slice.

@shi people growing up in North America got used to consuming lean cut of pork, except pork crackling in certain area. 脆皮烧肉 was probably the fattiest one for most HK people. In Taiwan, i liked going to shi Lin night market to enjoy my pork steak. I saw 豆油肉 and it was close to what they cook in Fujian and Teochiew. Still, all of the above aren’t close to the pork belly pyramid in Zhejiang.

Have you tried pig blood? It’s common in Taiwan, Vietnam, and Southern China. In Napoli, their local dessert ‘ sanguinaccio’ is made from pig blood.

10 个月 ago
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Shi

@localtaste Indeed, to be honest I tend to shy away from a lot of pork in the states because it tends to be too lean for my tastes. I do enjoy both 脆皮烧肉 and 豆油肉 quite a bit. In fact one of my favourite dishes is 滷肉饭 from Taiwan as I find it very comforting.

I have tried pigs blood in Taiwan and I enjoy it and surprisingly my wife (Born and raised in the states) fell in love with it as well! I've never had a chance to try sanguinaccio but would be quite curious to give it a shot!

Also as we live in the "Korea town" part of our city I do get to enjoy some Korean iterations of pork dishes from time to time which I like as well. My go to these days has been bossam when we dine out at a Korean restaurant that offers it!

10 个月 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

While I like eating pork blood a lot, in rice noodle soup (Guilin, Yunnan, HK cart noodles, etc), I think duck blood is starting to get more popular. @localtaste and shi
Kinda off topic, but I really like the blood sausage called morcilla.

Regarding @guest's decision, I sometimes think the topic of pork butchery can be confusing in its cuts. But thinking in terms of beef and steak, its easier to visualize cuts based on their fat decadence. And maybe you can apply the following thought to pork, from top to bottom in fattiness:
Short rib (before the fat is rendered away)
Brisket (like Texas bbq)
Ribeye/bone-in rib steak/prime rib (lots of fat, but easy to cut around)
Porterhouse
Filet mignon
Skirt
Shoulder/chuck/any ultra lean cuts of meat without fat interlacing it.
Wagyu obviously changes things a lot, versus black Angus cattle.

If it were at all possible, I would hope @guest could go with a friend, and try 2 choices.

10 个月 ago
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localtaste

@menchikatsu if u like morcilla, you should also try Sundae (순대.)

10 个月 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

I've encountered sundae a few times, with Korean friends. All blood sausages have a unique taste don't they?

Another pig's blood dish I like is Thai 'boat noodles'. The Italian blood dessert you mentioned sounds like a really daring and new idea to me.

10 个月 ago
User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

guest

@localtaste honestly for me this is all still quite confusing and I still don't know exactly how/what to order at this restaurant. from the two photos you sent side by side, i guess the one on the right looks more appealing to me (the photo that can see the yellow mustard on the plate).

10 个月 ago
Eab8dbbd 6732 4948 b852 ca447c818547

localtaste

@guest I was also thinking you probably prefer the one on the right. I think u should go with your gut feeling on the cut you prefer. Personally, I think Maruyama Kippei’s cut with fat is pretty good. But if u scroll down, tanse away would also prefer leaner cut so I don’t suggest going against your preferred cut.

You can just show the lady there the pic you wanted and say ‘one’ for one ticket. (You can save my picture or download from google map. They can speak simple English.

You can also choose Japanese language menu on the ticket machine and use google translate from your cell phone. But I think the best way is just show them the picture and they can help you at the ticket machine.

I downloaded these two pics from google map. The thick one looks very nice too if u like red meat and medium rare.

Next time I visit, I will snap the pic from the Japanese menu in the ticket machine for comparison.

10 个月 ago

Terence

If anyone is planning to go to Maruyama Kippei for dinner, check Google Maps and Facebook before you go. I realized yesterday that they actually stopped serving dinner this month after looking on Google Maps and confirming on their Facebook page.

11 个月 ago

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localtaste

Thank u for the update. Fortunately, u checked opening hour again before u go. For walk in restaurants like tonkatsu or ramen, it’s best to recheck again before going.

Maruyama kippei is facing staff shortage situation.

11 个月 ago

guest

Do they have an English menu, and is it cash only?

If the menu is Japanese only, can someone recommend a dish to me so I can recognize the characters? I'd like premium fatty pork.

11 个月 ago

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Shi

some google investigating seemed to indicate english was available on the updated ticket machine but as I have no first hand experience I'd defer to @localtaste or @saitoさん

11 个月 ago
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guest

The ticket machine has english menu on it. I believe it is cash only as you get your tickets by slotting cash into the machine like most ramen restaurants.

I have the belly rib roast which was very fatty to me in ky opinion.

11 个月 ago
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guest

My*

11 个月 ago
Eab8dbbd 6732 4948 b852 ca447c818547

localtaste

@guest cash only. I’ve taken this photo from their ticket machine for u.

11 个月 ago
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guest

@localtaste wow thank you! That response was above and beyond! :)

11 个月 ago

localtaste

Maruyama Kippei is updating its holiday this year. Their holiday will be Sun and Mon instead. Sometimes, they might open on Sunday and would announce so on their Facebook page.

11 个月 ago

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Shi

Thanks so much for the update @localtaste

11 个月 ago

guest

Have anyone try the expensive cuts at the place? Is it worth the money or should i just stick to their lunch deal. Thank you.

大约一年 ago

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Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

If you are going out of your way to visit, I don't recommend the lunch menu. I absolutely recommend the rib roast.

大约一年 ago
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Eric Yu

The Pursuit of Food Perfection | https://thepursuitoffoodperfection.wordpress.com

@Saito - I believe you can get the Rib Roast at lunch too (or I did atleast), or are you saying the meat quality is not as good at lunch?

大约一年 ago
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guest

@leo saito for the rib roast, is it the Maruyama or Kippei things on the machine?

大约一年 ago
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Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

Both the Maruyama Rib Roast and Kippei Rib Roast use meat that has quite a lot of fatty parts, so for first time visitors I recommend choosing something like the Rib Roast 250g.

大约一年 ago
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Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

@Eric
It is thought that the slightly cheaper "roast meal" and "filet meal", offered only during lunch on weekdays, use lower ranking meat than the usual menu items (such as "rib roast" and "Bo filet").

大约一年 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

That is some very good insider tips on choosing the right thing.

大约一年 ago

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