Tokyo Table Trip

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按照人口比率,以七尾灣為首,周圍被日本屈指可數的漁場包圍起來的石川縣擁有的壽司店的數量是日本第2位,被稱為壽司王國。
以金澤為中心,新舊名店短兵相接。
在本頁,以「味道」為標準,嚴格選擇了很多壽司店。
為大家介紹到金澤遊覽的壽司粉絲們必去的壽司名店。

1.小松彌助

在北陸新幹線金澤站附近的日本數一數二的人氣壽司店。
店主是與「sukiyabashi 次郎」的小野二郎先生齊名的壽司界的傳奇森田一夫先生。
雖然2015年曾經關閉過一次店,但是為了回應日本全國的壽司粉絲們的熱情要求(在有限的時間內)重新復活。
圓而可愛的壽司反映溫和友好森田先生的人品,嶄新的「小松彌助」仍然存在。
87歲的傳奇追求握出獨一無二的壽司,現在「小松彌助」的櫃檯也熙熙攘攘地聚集了從全國來的壽司粉絲。

◆小松彌助
Tabelog獎 2018銀獎
住址:石川縣金澤市本町2-17-21
電話號碼:076-231-1001
營業時間:11:30~13:00,13:00~14:30,14:30~16:00
預算:15,000~19,999 日圓
定期休息日:週三,週四
可使用銀行卡

2.壽司店 Mekumi

Freyaさん(@restaurant_hunter)がシェアした投稿 -

從金澤站乘坐計程車約20分鐘即到,是一家現在全世界各國遊客都會光臨的人氣店鋪。
顧客來的目的是為了品嘗店主山口尚亨每天早晨往返花費3小時從市場購買的寶石般的海鮮。
堅持製作出上等魚香的山口,要做出一點雜味和微塵都感受不到的上等的美味。
不給鮮魚增加太多負責,用很少的周折製作的握壽司非常精彩。
讓紅醋產生效力的獨創的醋飯使用魚白,牡蠣,海膽等食材絕妙地引出海鮮的美味。
午餐為握壽司,11貫花費1萬日圓,性價比超高。
如果是喜歡壽司的粉絲的話,請務必光臨一次,該店只會給您帶來驚喜。

◆壽司店 Mekumi
Tabelog獎 2018金獎
米其林二星
住址:石川縣野野市市下林4-48
電話號碼:076-246-7781
營業時間:
[週二~週六]
18:00~21:00
[周日]
12:00~14:00,18:00~21:00
預算:
10,000~14,999 日圓(午餐)
20,000~29,999 日圓(晚餐)
定期休息日:週一・週二不定期休息
可使用銀行卡

3.太平壽司

於1972年開業,是僅次於「小松彌助」的擁有悠久歷史的金澤名店。
位於住宅區看起來很平常店鋪,但是由於有很多粉絲從全國各地前來品嘗「蒸米飯熟壽司」和「星鰻蒸壽司」「雪蟹千層酥」等店主高谷進二郎先生獨創發行的壽司。
高谷先生從「很多客人只是飲酒吃下酒菜,不吃壽司」開始,把壽司和刺身放在一個盤子裡同時上菜的風格,在全日本也只有這家太平壽司才有。
通過和東京的江戶前壽司完全不一樣的超原創壽司體驗來吸引顧客。

◆太平壽司
Tabelog獎2018Silver
住址:石川縣野野市市太平寺1-164
電話號碼:076-248-5131
營業時間:
[午餐] 11:30~14:00
[晚餐] 17:30~22:30
預算:20,000~29,999 日圓(午餐)
定期休息日:週三
可使用銀行卡(Diners,JCB,AMEX,VISA)

4.乙女壽司

位於金澤鬧市,很有個性,讓人印象深刻的人氣店鋪。
20年多年前,從上一代繼承下來的店主鶴見和晴在乙女壽司大顯身手,使得該店獲得了「優良食材,高超的技能,優質的服務」的獨家聲譽。
無論客人有什麼問題,鶴見先生都會認真回答,這種熱情待客的態度真的讓客人很舒服。
以當地的東西為主,每天採購最優質的鮮魚,品質真的是沒的說。
黏糊糊的讓客人的舌頭粘起來的甜蝦和不斷滴下來的油脂,螺嘎吱嘎吱的口感吸引了很多特地從東京前來品嘗的壽司粉絲們。

◆乙女壽司
Tabelog獎 2018銅獎
米其林1星
住址:石川縣金澤市木倉町4-10
電話號碼:076-231-7447
營業時間:
[午餐] 12:00~14:00
[晚餐] 17:00~22:00
預算:10,000~14,999 日圓(午餐)
定期休息日:周日,節假日,週三晚上
可使用銀行卡(VISA,JCB,AMEX,Diners,MASTER)

5.鮨木場穀

店主木場谷光洋在銀座「鮨青木」長時間磨練過技藝,返回故鄉,在2016年開設的嶄露頭角的壽司店。
作為使用在當地炸好的魚,可品嘗道地的江戶前壽司的店,很快就贏得了很多粉絲。
和店主每天早晨在冰見漁港購買的鮮魚搭配的是在深山由僧侶悄悄栽培的品牌米越光米。
不太粘,味道很濃的大米可以把鮮魚的味道味引出來。
使用赤鯥,鮑魚,蝦,黃鰭短須石首魚・・・等日本海的鮮魚,做出超越江戸前壽司水準的江戸前壽司。
該店的出現又增加了一處遊覽金澤的樂趣。

◆鮨木場穀
住址:石川縣金澤市彥三町1-8-26 
電話號碼:076-256-1218
營業時間:17:00~21:00
預算:15,000~19,999 日圓
定期休息日:周日

6.幸壽司本店

年輕的兄弟有用武之地,被當地人所喜愛的人氣壽司店。
差不多是由的當地的鮮魚組成的主廚精選套餐的價格為12貫3500日圓,真的是非常少見的定價。
圓滾滾的壽司簡單而可愛,魚肉和醋飯的平衡非常絕妙。
在近海捕獲的牡蠣,烏賊,鱈魚,日本鳳螺等,準備了很多江戸前壽司不怎麼用的海鮮,有很多人特地光臨,品嘗2次套餐。
想以經濟實惠的價格品嘗金澤海鮮的人,請務必光臨「幸壽し」來品嘗。

◆幸壽司本店
住址:石川縣七尾市相生町30-1
電話號碼:0767-53-1274
營業時間:
[午餐] 11:30~14:00
[晚餐] 17:00~21:30
預算:15,000~19,999 日圓
定期休息日:週一
可使用銀行卡(JCB,AMEX,Diners)

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Comments Icon comments 20b52f1dd59ace07b92433da2a385e6f7392eb2937032eebc2a0bd0b67c69516 2


Just_Ingest

IG: Sushisibz

Happy new year to everyone! I recently visited Mekumi and here is my review for those who like to read this stuff. I apologize for the length but this was one of my most interesting sushi experiences so I had to write a bit more than usual. Maybe grab a cup of tea because this will be a long one ;-)

[TL;DR] An absolutely unique place. While the sushi here is not my absolute favorite, the style, execution, and philosophy is so interesting that I don't think you can find anything like this elsewhere. I would put this in the same bucket as Tenzushi/Kimura for "oddball" sushiyas that are difficult to compare with their peers. Expensive, luxurious, but for me, super memorable and 100% revisit.

MEKUMI
Otsumami: 9/10
Nigiri: 8/10
CP: 7.5/10

Of the many sushi-ya I researched, Mekumi is the single restaurant that aroused my curiosity the most. The sole reason is my intense fascination for taisho Takayoshi Yamaguchi, who opened the sushiya named after his wife. Even in a nation with plenty of otaku/kodawari sushi shokunins (i.e. sushi master artisans who are obsessed about details), Yamaguchi-san sticks out like a sore red thumb. This man is a complete nerd and I mean that in the most affectionate and admiring way possible. Yamaguchi's day starts very early (maybe 2:30 AM); he drives ~300km in search of impeccable sushi ingredients. After returning to his shop he commences preparations, and before long it's dinnertime and he hosts two dinner seatings. Then he sleeps for another one or two hours. Rinse and repeat; rinse and repeat.

If this sounds like the typical routine of a sushi master, Yamaguchi-san certainly differs in his preparation methods. You can read about him online, but I'll summarize my understanding: instead of employing typical Edomae preparation techniques where processes like aging and curing are typically done according to instinct or information passed down from masters, Yamaguchi's approach is scientific and empirical. In other words, dude is straight up weird. For instance, he:
- Has commissioned institutions to research more about the way scents and aromas change
- Will analyze the properties of different sushi ingredients and adjust the preparation time accordingly (for example, steaming an abalone a few seconds longer based on the fat level of any individual abalone [???]). I understand that sushi masters do this but I am not sure they employ his scientific criteria to assess how each fish should be prepared, lol.
- Has worked with some research institutions to better understand the process of fatty acid release, allowing him to age a seafood for exactly the optimal time

I won't pretend to understand the above principles in detail, but yeah, he apparently does all that. Tableall describes him as employing "quantitative analysis" as well but I'm not even going to guess what that means.

Complement his ultra-eccentric personality with the fact that winter is Yamaguchi-san's favorite season, and you can guess just how excited I was to visited Mekumi!

[REAL REVIEW STARTS HERE]
Anyway, I arrived at Mekumi on a reasonably cold winter night. The place is almost in the middle of nowhere so you have to go there by taxi. I was warmly invited into a waiting area and, eventually, the dining area. I loved the design of the place: the counter was made of perfect wood, seats were spacious, and gentle yet bright lighting permeated from the ceiling. An extremely comfortable place.

Before long Yamaguchi-san arrived. This fascinating man was so frail and small, and looked like he was going to pass out any moment. He brought in some crabs for us to see and, without making eye contact with anyone, launched into a soft-spoken extended monologue (a common theme throughout the night) about the crab which, based on the amazed expressions the other guests made, I can only assume involves convoluted scientific theories. After some more preparations the otsumami course finally commenced.

[OTSUMAMI]
Basically, of all the sushi-yas I visited to date, this was the most impressive otsumami course I had. The first two dishes were leg meat of zuwaigani and kegani topped with crab miso. The first was sweet and quite thin; the second was more wholesome and savory. Both had tons of obvious crab flavor. Then was another specimen of crab (I didn't catch what it was) which was so pure yet delicious. Shirako with a sweet ponzu-based sauce (I think) was next, and this is the dish that convinced me that Yamaguchi-san is an alchemist or mad scientist. I usually really dislike shirako but his preparation was otherworldly; they had absolutely none of the foul umami/innardlike taste of shirako and instead dissolved in your mouth like a gigantic curdy cottage cheese. Wow, REALLY good.

Very sweet and meaty botan ebi was served in various forms (sashimi, aburi, and fried heads), and a grilled nodoguro with lime was flawless. The dish that impressed me most of all came last: kobakogani "kanimen" i.e. kobako crab leg meat, body meat, tomalley, and innards, carefully extracted from the crab and rearranged inside its shell, and paired with a harmonious crab vinegar. I have had a few kanimens in the past but they couldn't compete with this. All the while, I have to note that the "crab guts" had virtually zero smell or foul taste at all. I hate eating innards, but I slurped all the innards clean at Mekumi.

The otsumami course did have a lot of crabs and I think it's an ingredient that Yamaguchi-san really likes. He tries to procure the best crabs in the region and prepares them flawlessly, managing to preserve tons and tons of natural crab flavor. Overall, easily at least 9/10 for otsumami.

[NIGIRI]
Next, nigiri. (Bear with me, but I think his nigiri is very unique and there is a philosophy which can be dissected by understanding each of the nigiri elements.) To start, Yamaguchi-san teases you by letting the aroma of his shari waft across the room. It is an addicting aroma, very different from what I associate with vinegared shari - almost smells like freshly-baked dough. Lovely, lovely aroma and I still remember it as a type this.

The first nigiri is yari-ika which Yamaguchi-san fuses oh-so-gently with the shari. His motions are very unique. Whereas other sushi masters I see typically transfer a relatively rounded shari ball onto neta, Yamaguchi messily transfers a chunk of shari onto neta, then shapes it when it is already on the neta. This ensures that there is a LOT of air in the rice. Then he flips over the sushi and barely presses the neta and shari together.

As I eat the yari ika, two things immediately stand out:
-> The topping is ethereally soft it melts into the shari
-> The shari is also very soft, much softer than at other sushi-yas I visited. It is very loosely packed and has a very light vinegar flavor.

The result is that the neta and shari become almost dissolve into each other, a unique sensation that I have not had before.

The yari ika was an excellent and memorable starting piece. But the thing is, as Yamaguchi-san served more and more nigiri, the effect of neta dissolving into shari was repeated over and over again. Each neta was so soft and creamy: e.g. a very melty amaebi; creamy uni; creamy shirako; nodoguro and anago that dissolve in your mouth, etc. He didn't serve anything hard (e.g. clams), and even his kohada was quite soft for a kohada.

After some reflection, my take on Yamaguchi-san's philosophy is the following: the theme is "things melting" and everything he does, from neta selection to ingredient prep to nigiri shaping, is designed to conform to that theme. Sometimes you eat an ootoro and it melts but you are left with hard rice grains. Or sometimes you eat soft rice grains but have to chew on, say, an akagai. Not so here: everything here melted together; it was course after course of things melting in the mouth. You don't need to chew very much; imagine eating neta and shari that is reminiscent of a soft porridge dish. After a while this became slightly repetitive, as all of the pieces had a squid/crustacean-like consistency, but the flavors of the neta were still flawless and on point. And the meal was very cohesive as a result. You may think I am overanalyzing this but I encourage you to visit Mekumi and see if you agree. For me, the nigiri part was very memorable and unique in its on way, and I would love to taste Yamaguchi-san's other nigiri in a different season.

One minor 'complaint' I have is that in the entire meal, we were only served two fish (kohada and nodoguro). The rest was mostly crustaceans/cephalopods (he used to serve tuna, but I didn't get any tuna nigiri except a meji maguro sashimi on my visit. I don't know if he decided to permanently discontinue serving tuna) I think this is more of a preference thing rather than a flaw, though. If you love non-fish stuff, and grilled items (we were served quite a few) you will love Mekumi.

The service throughout the night was flawless, the waiters (Mrs. Mekumi and another woman) radiating immense warmth and cheer. Regarding Yamaguchi-san, you can tell he is serious about his sushi but he is also super humble and nice. Actually, he reminds me of the kid you didn't want to hang out with at high school. But he doesn't give a crap about that: he doesn't want to hang out with you either, because he's living in his own world and focusing on perfecting his craft. He seems a little nervous to look at you, and he mumbles scientific theories to no one in particular, but I found that unconventionally endearing. He does crack jokes and is more than happy to pose with you at the end, and is very welcoming of foreign guests. Basically, after my visit to Mekumi, my fascination with Yamaguchi-san has actually increased; maybe he is a bit crazy but he has acres and acres of personality. It felt like he had poured the entirety of his mind and heart to his sushi at the cost of a great deal of his health, and I would say he more than deserves the Tabelog Gold award. If I'm lucky enough to visit Kanazawa again, the first place I'll look to is Mekumi.

19 天 ago

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guest

@Just_Ingest wonderful piece as always, makes one want to visit immediately. Just one point, shouldn't it be mrs yamaguchi instead of mrs mekumi?

19 天 ago
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guest

Is it difficult to reserve?

19 天 ago
Tinyfin

Just_Ingest

IG: Sushisibz

@Guest 1 Thank you! Actually, I am not sure. Maybe it's because the name "Mekumi" is so distinct that I referred to her here as Mrs. Mekumi instead. She is a lovely lady, always smiling and a remarkable supporting force at the sushiya, and reminds me of Inomata-san's wife in terms of the hospitality they offer.

@Guest 2 - I booked it through Tableall a month in advance so I think it's not too bad. However, you will need to commute to Kanazawa which is roughly 2h 30 min bullet train from Tokyo.

19 天 ago
Picture?width=100&height=100

Viv

thanks Justin. very detailed review! soft and plain shari sounds a bit odd to me but i think i'll give a try when in kanazawa.

19 天 ago
Photo

sharikiri

Very very interesting! I'm intrigued. Will you be posting photos of you meal on your blog or on Instagram?

17 天 ago
Tinyfin

Just_Ingest

IG: Sushisibz

Dear Sharikiri, Mekumi doesn't seem like a place where it's polite to take a lot of photos (so I didn't), but in case you're interested here is the progression of my meal:

Otsumami
1. Zuwaigani leg with kani miso
2. Kegani leg with kani miso
3. A type of crab (not sure, "moto-zuwaigani" or river snow crab was what I caught)
4. Shirako with sweet ponzu-based sauce
5. Sashimi: aori ika, botan ebi, meji maguro (2 slices each)
6. Aburi botan ebi
7. Nori (just a crispy piece of nori with nothing else)
8. Grilled nodoguro with lime
9. Kobakogani served in shell, with crab vinegar
10. Fried botan ebi heads (x2 bites)

Nigiri
1. Yari Ika
2. Ama ebi
3. Bafun uni
4. Shirako
5. Kohada
6. Kani chirashi (not a nigiri)
7. Aburi ama ebi
8. Aburi nodoguro
9. Anago
10. Futomaki of kanpyo , dashimaki tamago, and anago

16 天 ago
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guest

What was your date of visit? It sounds very much like the meal I had there as well!

5 天 ago
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@Just_Ingest Also out of curiosity, what are your favourite sushiyas?

5 天 ago
Tinyfin

Just_Ingest

IG: Sushisibz

@Guest I visited Mekumi on 30 Dec.

Regarding sushi restaurants, I have not been to the superstars like Sugita or Amamoto but my current two favorites would be Shimizu and Ichijo.

Shimizu is just fascinating to me, especially after visiting a few times. Although the sushi looks deceptively simple, it feels like so much effort has been put into the conception and execution of each piece. Extraordinarily consistent meal from start to end with many standout pieces. Shimizu-san's anago is one of the few nigiri that forces me to smile while eating.

I also like the nigiri at Ichijo a lot and there are many standout pieces as well, although the overall balance does not reach Shimizu-level heights :-)

4 天 ago

Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

The chef of the very popular Sushi restaurant in Kanazawa “Tahei Sushi” where fans from all over Japan gather has passed away in March 2018. We pray that his soul may rest in peace

9 个月 ago

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Sad to know !

7 个月 ago