Tokyo Table Trip

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這次推出受到讀者們廣大迴響的「年輕世代經營的超人氣餐廳特集」的天婦羅版本。
打破以往保守派的江戶前天婦羅,顛覆舊有傳統打造天婦羅的新魅力的9家精選先驅餐廳。

1. 成生

在富士山採集的蔬菜與駿河灣的海鮮作為本店最大利器,成為發展與江戶前截然不同的新天婦羅的先驅者。
店主神采奕奕的說著:「我的天婦羅首先必須要有食材。店內使用的魚來自燒津的魚店,蔬菜來自於榛原的農戶,每天都會到這些地方採購。由於生產者為兩人三腳,所以我發展了只有在這塊土地才能成立的天婦羅。」
店裡提供每日精選套餐,首先是以當地的肥美白帶魚為首,再來還有當季的魚與蔬菜,一共提供10幾道料理。
這天最令人興奮的是使用駿河灣櫻花蝦養育的肉質肥美的竹筴魚。
裹著麵衣與半生的魚肉,富含口感爽口甜美的水潤感在口中散開,魚肉呈暗紅色,芳醇的香味沁入心脾。
在成生可以品嚐得到因食材與店的近距離才料理出的"駿河前"天婦羅。
比起新鮮的蔬菜海鮮更想品嚐到更接近自然的原味,現在正夯追求「新鮮感」,靜岡聚集許多來自日本各地的饕客們。

◆天婦羅 成生
地址:静岡現静岡市葵區鷹匠2-5-12
電話:054-273-0703
營業時間:
[午餐]12:00~14:00
[晚餐]17:00~19:00/19:30~22:00 ※晚上分兩梯次
預算:15,000~19,999JPY
公休日:星期日
可使用信用卡(JCB、AMEX)

2. Niitome

Niitome現在於食べログ(Tabelog,是日本最大的美食評鑑網站之一)上榮登第一名備受關注的餐廳。
現今有許多來自日本全國各地的很多客人,就為品嚐「Niitome」的絕品天婦羅。
使用冷卻負10幾度的小麥粉炸出獨特的天婦羅麵衣,口感彷彿白雪般入口即化。
天婦羅蕎麥麵以香魚、鮑魚、河豚、鯛魚等當季海鮮為主,使用近海捕獲的高級食材。
代表東京的人氣壽司店「日本橋蠣殼町的杉田」的主廚杉田孝明與「喜邑」的主廚木村康司皆為追求刺激感定期會造訪,是現今日本最夯的天婦羅餐廳,務必來品嚐看看。

◆Niitome
地址:愛知縣名古屋市東區泉2-19-11 2F
電話:052-936-2077
營業時間:18:00~
預算:30,000JPY~
公休日:不定時
可使用信用卡(VISA、MASTER、JCB、AMEX、Diners)

3. 日本橋蕎之字

本篇因第一間介紹的「成生」而大紅的"靜岡天婦羅",日本橋蕎之字是在東京也可以品嚐到的唯一一間天婦羅餐廳。
和成生一樣,使用江戶前天婦羅店絕不使用的青魚與魚肉塊,偶爾甚至還會使用鹿肉作為天婦羅,這樣隨心所欲的店主實在是令人喜歡。
最為特色的是可以品嚐從靜岡當地採的蔬菜作為天婦羅。
可以那麼直接品嚐紅蘿蔔、洋蔥、蓮藕與蕃薯等這些蔬菜的魅力,我想應該在其他天婦羅餐廳是無法品嚐的到吧。
由於店主的老家是做蕎麥麵店,因此餐廳的最後一道菜色不是提供混合天婦而是手打蕎麥麵,實在很有特色。
品嚐這滑溜爽口的蕎麥麵作為套餐的尾聲吧!

◆日本橋蕎之字
地址:東京都中央區日本橋人形町2-22-11
電話:03-5643-1566
營業時間:
[午餐] 11:40~14:00
[晚餐] 18:00~21:00
預算:15,000~19,999JPY
公休日:星期一・每月第二・三週星期日
可使用信用卡(VISA、MASTER、JCB)

4. 中川

中川是間佇立於築地站附近的一間眾人皆知的名店。
廚藝精湛的店主曾於世界第一名店的「美川是山居」待了17年精進修行過。
獨立後他花了10年以上的時間鑽研,其等級已被一部分的饕客們評為「已超越於美川」。
由他料理的天婦羅蓬鬆且輕盈,芳香且酥脆,可好好的享受這當中豐富的層次感。
店主的眼光很好,經常於春天準備山菜、夏天海鰻、秋天松茸、冬天虎河豚等等這些高級食材。
可充分享受四季分明的當季食材,是間令人想定期到訪的天婦羅餐廳。

◆中川
地址:東京都中央區築地2-14-2
電話:03-3546-7335
營業時間:
[午餐] 11:30~13:30
[晚餐] 17:00~22:00
預算:15,000~19,999JPY
公休日:星期一
不可使用信用卡

5. 天婦羅前平

天婦羅前平的店主曾於最佳的東京天婦羅餐廳「山上」擔任過主廚,他於2017年開了一間新餐廳。
傳承部分江戶前王道的廚藝技法,並融入最近流行的天婦羅蕎麥麵的特色,受到許多天婦羅迷的支持。
完成度高的主廚推薦料理中最為出色的是結尾的「海鰻天丼」。
米飯上放入細小的牛蒡與生薑的混合天婦羅丁,喀茲喀茲的酥脆聲譜出一段動聽的旋律。

◆天婦羅前平
地址:東京都港區麻布十番2-8-16 4F
電話:03-6435-1996
營業時間:17:00~22:00
預算:20,000~29,999JPY
公休日:星期日
可使用信用卡

6. 江戶前晉作

店主從未有任何天婦羅餐廳的修行經驗,這樣與眾不同的店主開的一家新店。
店主曾以客人身分到「美川是山居」用餐,被其美味擄獲,看了傳說中的天婦羅職人早乙女哲哉先生的手法後在家一直辛勤練習,終於開了一間實現自己理想的天婦羅餐廳。
在客人面前使用筷子即可切開海鰻天婦羅的「美川式」,肉質柔嫩與口感略酥硬的麵衣配上絕妙的鹽梅。
與其說是店主自己的喜好,天婦羅配上熟成的日本酒更是絕配?
餐點結尾提供爽口的鮪魚茶泡飯,實在罕見。
所以有部分覺得「吃了一連串的天婦羅後,以混合天婦羅作為最後一品口味太過重鹹」的人可以不用擔心。

◆江戶前晉作
地址:東京都文京區本郷4-2-4
電話:050-5593-6140
營業時間:18:00~21:30
預算:10,000~14,999JPY
公休日:星期日
不可使用信用卡

7. 天婦羅下村

店主曾於名店「山上」精進修行過,他於東京下町開了一間備受注目的天婦羅餐廳。
午餐套餐價格定位與「山上」些微不同,為4500日幣、6000日幣的超值價格。
這裡的天婦羅蕎麥麵的特徵為可充分享受新鮮柔嫩入口即化的海鮮・酥脆蓬鬆的麵衣裹著蔬菜的纖維。
店主已有20年天婦羅職人經驗,今後會如何發展這濃厚的「山上」特色天婦羅呢?是可以隨時關注的優秀餐廳。

◆天婦羅下村
地址:東京都台東區三筋1-11-13
電話:03-5809-2866
營業時間:
[午餐]12:00~14:00
[晚餐]17:00~21:00
預算:20,000~29,999JPY
公休日:星期日
可使用信用卡(VISA、MASTER)

8. 福庵

天婦羅餐廳福庵的店主曾於天婦羅之神早乙女哲哉先生開的「美川是山居」精進修行過。
雖然店內充滿庶民氛圍,每道菜的價格設定如同居酒屋風格,但品嚐後可以感受到「美川」的影子。
倘若講到江戶前天婦羅的必備食材,明蝦、鱚魚、煽烏賊、蝦蛄、海鰻・・・這些絕對不是最好的食材,但在店主熟練精湛的廚藝之下料理出絕佳的美味。
晚上的主廚推薦料理價格居然只要3500日幣。
如只想花5000日幣以下預算在東京當地的江戶前天婦羅上的人可以考慮看看「福庵」。

◆福庵
地址:東京都江東區富岡1-22-26 2F
電話:03-5646-6365
營業時間:
[午餐] 11:45~13:30
[晚餐] 18:30~22:00
預算:4,000~4,999JPY
公休日:星期日
可使用信用卡(VISA、MASTER、JCB、AMEX、Diners)

9. 天婦羅小野

店主也擔任日本內閣府推動Cool Japan政策,由他經營的風格迥異的天婦羅餐廳。
他雇用法國香檳省出身的法國人,追求適合搭配天婦羅的紅酒與香檳。
點了天婦羅蕎麥麵後,店家即會提供稀少珍貴的扇貝,上面灑上松露,搭配香檳。
茗荷上點綴著切絲生薑,灑上柴魚片,搭配白酒。
店主想從白領變成為天婦羅職人,對於味道的組合相當有天份,出類拔萃。
想知道天婦羅配上紅酒吃起來如何呢?不妨來造訪一次看看這間個性獨特的天婦羅餐廳。

◆天婦羅小野
地址:東京都中央區八丁堀2-15-5 3F
電話:03-3552-4600
營業時間:17:30~21:00
預算:15,000~19,999JPY
公休日:星期六・星期日
可使用信用卡(VISA、MASTER、AMEX)

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guest

Hi Saito San, for Naruse in the article it says 4,000-4,999 JPY? Is this for lunch course? From what I saw on Tabelog it's more expensive than this. Are the courses/price same for both lunch and dinner at this restaurant? Thank you very much!

6 天 ago

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Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

I apologize. The budget for the menu for lunch and dinner will both be 15,000 to 20,000 yen. I will make the amendment.

5 天 ago

guest

Saito-san,can I check whether you have tried kusunoki? How does it compares to naruse and niitome which you have recommended here?

9 天 ago

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Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

I've never been to "Kusunoki", and I doubt that I'll be going there in the future, so it's hard to compare.
Incidentally, when someone I know went there just recently, he ordered omakase-course and had two glasses of white wine, and I heard the check was over ¥70,000.

9 天 ago

御馳走様

Thank you very much Saito san. I was hoping you would write an article about the tempura restaurants that are either relatively new or recently relocated to Tokyo, in comparison to the long established places in the city.

I have only been to SONOJI of these discussed here, but may have a chance to visit Niitome soon. i always wanted to integrate a tempura meal into my trip routines, but find tempura always takes a back seat when I plan, due to lack of options. For me, yama no ue lineage restaurants are tasty but lack the wow factor. I would probably go to fukamachi quite often if I live in the city, but otherwise I dont get very excited to visit the place when I fly in from oversea. Meals at mikawa feels more special to me, but the environment (somewhat cold service, small place packed with tourists) is a bit discouraging and prevents me from visiting often. I liked Mikasa but it is very hard to reserve and not as convenient to visit. My wife kind of likes nanachoume kyouboshi, and I see the reviews turn to be quite divided,

Saito san, I was wondering what your favorite tempura places/styles are. Among the new style (with more non-tempura dishes and creative ingredients) or recently relocated places (Kusunoki) and these you introduced (esp Naruse and Niitome) here, which ones get to be on your pocket list and why?

Thanks. Appreciate the thoughts.

13 天 ago

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Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

”Naruse“ is one of my favorite restaurants in Japan, along with ”Shimidzu.“
I dine there every season, and they let me enjoy seasonal fish and vegetables in such a creative way that it challenges the concept of ”tempura.“
I once visited ”Niidome,“ and the surprisingly fine taste of their thin-battered tempura really impressed me,
but going to Nagoya on a day trip is not a hassle-free experience, so I do not dine their regularly at the moment.

12 天 ago
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御馳走様

Thanks Saito san. Great to hear your thoughts. Niitome san seems to be quite active participating in collaboration events, so hopefully there will be more chances to taste their masterpieces in Tokyo.

10 天 ago

localtaste

Thank you Saito San for great insight and superb info, as always. Please allow me to share my experience.

Fukuan stopped their lunch service last time I checked with them.

At one point, I really wanted to visit Naruse. I had a hard time trying to book and I tried a few ways like different concierges. The last attempt came with reason like they were full for the whole year and didn’t know when would they start accepting new booking. However, it seems they worked with Pocket concierge but I never use pocket concierge. I wonder if any visitor has any success visiting them.

15 天 ago

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guest

Was looking through the tabelog reviews. Seems like new visitors need to be invited by a regular customer and the reservation is 6 months before. At least from what I understand from the English translation of the tabelog review. Link:
https://s.tabelog.com/shizuoka/A2201/A220101/22015243/dtlrvwlst/B360971572/

15 天 ago
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Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

The owner has confirmed that the reservation policy will be changed to "accepting reservations two months ahead on the first day of each month (which means, reservation for January done on November 1), starting from November.
I think there will be fights over the seats since it is a small shop with only seven seats, but it should be easier to make a reservation than before.

14 天 ago
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御馳走様

pocket concierge can be for last minute cancellations (I didn't use them either, just guessing). A while ago our ryokan in izu was able to make a reservation at naruse for us, but unfortunately our schedule changed.

13 天 ago

guest

Thank Saito-san. Would you be able to advise how long before should we make the reservations at each tempura restaurant?

16 天 ago

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Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

At the moment, only three restaurants - "Naruse", "Niitome", and "Sonoji" - are proving to be difficult to secure a reservation.
The reservation policies for each of the restaurants are as follows.

◆Naruse
On the first day of each month, the restaurant begins accepting reservations for 2-month waits (Seating for the month of January 2019 will become available on November 1).

◆Niitome
On the first day of each month, the restaurant begins accepting reservations for 1-month waits (Seating for the month of December will become available on November 1).

◆Sonoji
Reservations by telephone will be accepted only during 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., and from 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Reservations can otherwise be made via TABLEALL.
(There are no specifications regarding designated eligible reservation periods)

16 天 ago

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