Tokyo Table Trip

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根據我自己的用餐經驗及多年來對最美味鰻魚的不斷追尋,我認為「かぶと(Kabuto)」、「尾花(Obana)」、「鰻禅(Unazen)」以及 「魚政(Uomasa)」這四間,是關東地區提供鰻魚料理餐廳中最棒的幾間。這四間餐廳都很受歡同時也各自有其獨到之處。

「かぶと (Kabuto)」這間餐廳很適合那些喜好古雅風格,追尋昔日街坊小餐館風情的人士到此用餐。在「かぶと(Kabuto)」,店家會直接在你面前處理魚隻,你會看到活生生的鰻魚依然跳動的心臟被開膛破肚後取出。因此,建議膽小人士迴避為妙。饕客一定要來品嚐鰻魚的各種不同部位。在此處用過晚餐後,我得禁食一天好從享用鰻魚美味的欣快感中恢復過來。餐點非常豐盛,我建議您來吃晚餐當天的中午少少地吃一點就好。

由於「尾花 (Obana)」根本不接受預訂,對於那些想直接到店用餐的人士來說是很好的選擇。因為這裡已成為觀光景點之一的緣故,所以您可以看到許多飢腸轆轆且帶著行李的觀光客,在排隊等待用餐。儘管店內供客人席地用餐的空間還不算小,卻依然可見排隊候位的長長人龍。總之,這裡的午餐賣相絕佳,醬汁也很棒。雖說少了現場演出的鰻魚開腸剖肚秀可欣賞。

「鰻禅 (Unazen)」鄰近東京晴空塔,是由一對可愛的老夫婦經營的小店。客人點餐後才會進行活鰻剖殺及燒烤作業,因此備餐時間較長。您可不經預直接到店,我自己的小技巧是等到沒什麼人用餐的離峰時刻再去。這裡的鰻魚和醬汁都深得我心。

「魚政(Uomasa)」給我一種身處箱子中用餐的感覺。用餐室的裝飾很簡單,但上等的鰻魚搭配迷人的醬汁香氣,彌補了這裡在格調氣氛上的乏善可陳。這家店不難預約,但要來前一定要先預訂,否則您可能會像許多直接來店的饕客一樣,被店門前宣告餐點售罄的牌子拒於門外。

雖然我有自信關東一帶所有供應上等鰻魚料理的餐廳,大部分我都去過了,但多虧了我在東京的長官,帶我去了靜岡。位於靜岡縣的這家「瞬(SHUN)」鰻魚餐廳開在離靜岡車站有段距離的一個華麗前衛社區內。可說是隱藏版的絕品店家!我一走進店內,就忍不住愛上了環繞著餐廳的優美庭園。「瞬」以一吧檯搭配一大桌方式營造出絕佳的氣氛。使人無比放鬆!午餐採單點形式,晚餐則是由主廚全權配菜的套餐。吧檯區的客人在欣賞主廚現場燒烤香氣無與倫比的鰻魚的同時,也能窺見後面廚房宰殺鰻魚的情景。這對心臟不夠強的人來說或許不會那麼驚悚,只是欣賞時得小心不要靠烤架太近。醬汁有著深厚複雜的鮮味,呈現出不會讓人覺得口味過重的絕佳平衡。烤鰻魚肝及鰻魚湯也很棒。店內設的大張桌子,很適合讓團體在此用餐。

「瞬」所使用的高檔食材,其品質之佳令人印象深刻。這要歸功於餐廳所在的位置鄰近以鰻魚及鋼琴工廠這兩大特色而聞名的濱松市。濱松製造的鋼琴品質也是最上等的。我來自濱松的日本朋友說過,他不會在東京品嚐鰻魚,我想我現在了解其中的道理了。

雖然「瞬」僅靠一對夫婦攜手經營,但店裡的服務可是一流的。老闆娘既親切又十分有效率。我去的時候店內沒有其它外國人,所以老闆夫婦和另一名用餐客人看到我這個洋面孔時顯得有些驚訝。儘管如此,他們的友善與好客卻讓我十分感動。

鰻魚被我列在「盡量避免的食物名單」上,過去幾年我吃鰻魚料理的次數大幅減少,倒不是擔憂這種油脂豐厚的魚類身上很容易累積的重金屬,而是憂心日益減少的鰻魚數量。除了日本及其它仿效日本的國際饕客外,在其它文化中,例如西班牙人,也深愛他們稱做「Angulas(英文為 elvers )」的幼鰻料理,導致過去幾年鰻魚價格高漲及供應量銳減的狀況。照這種速度惡化下去,未來十年內,我們可能很難再看到鰻魚了。即使有海洋生物學上的進展,以及最新的科技,但在養殖鰻魚上,並未獲得真正的成功。所有在養殖場培育的鰻魚都需要從野生饅魚中先取得魚苗。但是野生捕獲的鰻魚數量已減少,而且供應也不甚穩定。就我所知可能僅有「かぶと(Kabuto)」、「天本(Amamoto)」及「照寿司 」(供應巨無霸野生鰻魚堡)三家餐廳有能力定期採購野生鰻魚。

午餐時段店家雖然也接受直接上門的客人,但建議您還是事先預約為宜。考慮到從東京來此的路途遙遠,除非您是個十足鰻魚極客,我不建議您舟車勞頓地前來。但對於那些將大老遠從東京出發、將耗時一整天尋找美食視若公園散步般輕鬆的硬派饕客,「瞬」應該要被列入必訪名單。除此之外,您也可以將一餐安排在「瞬」,另一餐則轉戰「てんぷら 成生(Tempura Naruse )」,好讓這趟靜岡之旅不虛此行。
至於想品嚐鰻魚料理的一般客人,我會建議您偶一為之就好,找一家很棒的鰻魚餐廳,細細品味鰻魚的絕妙滋味。這麼一來,我們的後世子孫或許還有機會也能嚐到美味的鰻魚。

◆瞬(SHUN)
地址:静岡県静岡市葵区有永町260-1
電話:054-294-7178
營業時間:
[午餐] 11:30-14:30
[晚餐] 17:30~21:00
預算:6,000~7,999JPY (午餐) / 15,000~20,000JPY (晚餐)
公休日:星期日

Writer:Localtaste

「Local taste 」早在社群媒體出現之前,就開啟了尋找美食的漫長旅程,從一個城市漫遊至另一個城市,從遠東地區到西方,走過四大洲 160 個以上的城市,在過去 37 年,跋涉超過 400,000 英里的距離。
他在數千個不同的餐廳用過餐,從亞洲的一處牆洞內,一直到巴黎所有獲得米其林3星榮譽的十家餐廳,還花了幾十年的時間在追尋完美的小籠包。
由於他並非從事餐飲相關行業,也不是美食作家,因此您在別處看不到他的文章,tokyotabletrip.com 是唯一獨家刊登 Leo Saito 文章的媒體,以藉此感謝他在幫助各國旅客發掘日本料理之美所做出的無私貢獻。

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ChuToroZuke

Beautiful!!! Excellent first article, congratulations!! So true about wild, sustainable, and mass produced farmed unsustainable unagi from dubious sources...

I've gotten used to excellent anago, a bit easier to find even overseas... or if only restaurants can replicate the blue collar neighborhood style of doing iwashi and sanma kabayaki, I'd be happy enough!

25 天 ago

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localtaste

@ChuToroZuke thank u for your kind words. That’s very flattering.

I love iwashi and sanma as well. Which kind of food / restaurants in Tokyo are your favorites? :)

23 天 ago
User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

ChuToroZuke

Thank you. I enjoy a wide range of food as eating should always be an enjoyable experience regardless of status, cost... no specifics really and in no particular order:

-Yoshoku (low end and high end)

- Izakaya (naturally) / sake bars with interesting food

- Yakitori themed izakaya

- specialist kind of restaurants (high end and low end)....I do want to try motsuyaki (grilled giblets on sticks, chicken, pork, beef etc) but I'll probably have to condition myself for it.

- seafood in general (shellfish / clams / oysters, different preparations of fish from himono, ichiyaboshi, nitsuke, shioyaki, fermented, tempura, agemono/yoshoku style furai, nanbanzuke etc made into a paste for soup like iwashi meatball paste at Sushi Kimura, iwashi specialist blue collar places that do kabayaki/deep fried with cheese/sashimi/namerou, )

- Japanese style Italian (in particular, authentic Italian cooking techniques, Japanese flair, Japanese seafood) from low end to high end. Japanese French is good too but I haven't eaten much of it.

- chuka ryori (blue collar Japanese Chinese noodles, rice, dumplings, stir fry like sweet sour pork) and regional varieties

- kappo kaiseki , kappo ryori , kappo izakaya (the latter would include places like Kirakutei and Kotaro)

- soba (traditional, nice places which I have yet to try, and blue collar standing soba places like the 24 hour chains)

- niche food... I would categorize it under Kyodo Ryori 郷土料理 (regional cuisine). Something I want to explore more. Last year I tried one good example for Tokyo: Fukugawa don, a bowl of rice with soup topped with fisherman food...a lot of shijimi, hamaguri, nori, raw egg. It's quite an interesting experience. The soupless version they just call it Fukugawa Meshi. Maybe not something to have too often, but it's fun once in a while!

- oden (too hot at the time and unfortunately no opportunity last trip)

- washoku (non kaiseki) which would be pretty much everything else... hot pot/nabe, the kind of food you see in the Japanese TV series Shinya Shokudo, buri daikon (and anything nimono in general beyond sushi), dashi based dishes (agedashi tofu, suimono, shabu shabu),

And of course the occasional ramen (shoyu broth and traditional chuka soba), udon. I'll also admit that I like kissaten, those very localized Japanese old school style coffee places with cake, the definitive place to rest between shopping or if your feet need a break. So if I'm in the mood, I'll even have a plate of ketchup stir fried spaghetti (Spaghetti Napolitan) though I had no quota last trip if the kissaten has it, or fluffy pancakes. I missed out on kakigori, exploring some Japanese French patisseries / croissant type stuff, and traditional wagashi (last year Morinoen in Ningyocho was a nice favorite place with very aromatic and bold houjicha).

22 天 ago
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localtaste

@ChuToroZuke that’s a lot of dining experience. Sound more like a pro. Not many foreigners have tried Fukagawa don.

You can find Spaghetti Naporitan’s cousin in the US, right? I don’t get to see lots of Spaghetti Naporitan in Japan anymore.

18 天 ago
User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

ChuToroZuke

@localtaste Not a pro, just an enthusiast. Spaghetti Naporitan specifically not quite so in California, but you could find something far distant parallel in a Hong Kong cafe that serves Hong Kong style western (baked spaghetti with ketchup sauce) or stir fry spaghetti.

17 天 ago
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localtaste

@ChuToroZuke Some enthusiasts are far more experienced than pros. Cha chaan teng is HK’s respond to Yoshoku. Baked tomato pork chop or macaroni with ham were pretty popular.

The Cheesecake Factory serves Spaghetti Napolitana, the version with meatball. On the west coast, they got many branches in Bay Area and LA.

17 天 ago
User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

ChuToroZuke

@localtaste the closest thing to Spaghetti Naporitan would be something like The Spaghetti House in Hong Kong where I think they also do pan sauteed or stir fry version (Spaghetti Napolitano), but they add lots of other things like onion, bell peppers etc. Japanese version a bit more simplified with mushrooms, ham and a bit more focus on the ketchup/sweet and sour component and whatever else restaurants or moms use...I have yet to try the teppan grill versions with the fluffy egg at the bottom. Hong Kong cafes maybe a distant parallel but it's easy to understand the crossover. Cheesecake Factory? Too Americanized, I think it's a completely different style...Spaghetti Meatballs is more Italian American, can be good at the right place but still not quite the same. In Tokyo I was told https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1302/A130201/13000032/ Little Koiwai リトル小岩井 is a good place for spaghetti Naporitan and popular with salarymen. I really enjoyed the version at Sabouru (Kissaten) in Jimbocho where the inside looks a little bit like a Hawaiian Tiki Bar https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1310/A131003/13000609/ the ventiliation inside is poor and lots of cigarette smoke...but what's fun also is that in addition to coffee and cocktails, they serve a very strong umeshu.

17 天 ago
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localtaste

@ChuToroZuke wow ... u r the real Spaghetti Naporitan expert.

10 天 ago

guest

Wow great article! Thanks localtaste and Leo!

26 天 ago

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guest

Thanks for the article.

If I have to choose between Unazen and Uomosa which one would you recommend?

26 天 ago
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localtaste

@guest both are nice. It depends on what u r looking for. If u want to visit Obana because its fame, don’t wanna book in advance, prefer walking in, don’t mind long queue, wanna got the experience in the long queue (+ take selfie?) and sit on the floor as well as walking pass the kitchen, Obana would be your choice. If u want a nice eel, don’t mind booking in advance to minimize the waiting time not dine with minimum deco without any actions, uomasa would suit you.

26 天 ago
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guest

@guest In terms of taste, uomasa is better in my opinion. But if you are operating under a budget and intends to visit Tokyo skytree, unazen offers farm-raised eel at a price of 3500yen for regular and 4000yen for special. You can easily get a seat on a weekday but it's quite busy on a weekend.

25 天 ago

Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

Local Taste, a foodie who travels around the world tasting the local delicacies and a friend of mine, local unagi restaurant in Shizuoka that most foreigners have never heard of.

26 天 ago

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