Tokyo Table Trip

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根據我自己的用餐經驗及多年來對最美味鰻魚的不斷追尋,我認為「かぶと(Kabuto)」、「尾花(Obana)」、「鰻禅(Unazen)」以及 「魚政(Uomasa)」這四間,是關東地區提供鰻魚料理餐廳中最棒的幾間。這四間餐廳都很受歡同時也各自有其獨到之處。

「かぶと (Kabuto)」這間餐廳很適合那些喜好古雅風格,追尋昔日街坊小餐館風情的人士到此用餐。在「かぶと(Kabuto)」,店家會直接在你面前處理魚隻,你會看到活生生的鰻魚依然跳動的心臟被開膛破肚後取出。因此,建議膽小人士迴避為妙。饕客一定要來品嚐鰻魚的各種不同部位。在此處用過晚餐後,我得禁食一天好從享用鰻魚美味的欣快感中恢復過來。餐點非常豐盛,我建議您來吃晚餐當天的中午少少地吃一點就好。

由於「尾花 (Obana)」根本不接受預訂,對於那些想直接到店用餐的人士來說是很好的選擇。因為這裡已成為觀光景點之一的緣故,所以您可以看到許多飢腸轆轆且帶著行李的觀光客,在排隊等待用餐。儘管店內供客人席地用餐的空間還不算小,卻依然可見排隊候位的長長人龍。總之,這裡的午餐賣相絕佳,醬汁也很棒。雖說少了現場演出的鰻魚開腸剖肚秀可欣賞。

「鰻禅 (Unazen)」鄰近東京晴空塔,是由一對可愛的老夫婦經營的小店。客人點餐後才會進行活鰻剖殺及燒烤作業,因此備餐時間較長。您可不經預直接到店,我自己的小技巧是等到沒什麼人用餐的離峰時刻再去。這裡的鰻魚和醬汁都深得我心。

「魚政(Uomasa)」給我一種身處箱子中用餐的感覺。用餐室的裝飾很簡單,但上等的鰻魚搭配迷人的醬汁香氣,彌補了這裡在格調氣氛上的乏善可陳。這家店不難預約,但要來前一定要先預訂,否則您可能會像許多直接來店的饕客一樣,被店門前宣告餐點售罄的牌子拒於門外。

雖然我有自信關東一帶所有供應上等鰻魚料理的餐廳,大部分我都去過了,但多虧了我在東京的長官,帶我去了靜岡。位於靜岡縣的這家「瞬(SHUN)」鰻魚餐廳開在離靜岡車站有段距離的一個華麗前衛社區內。可說是隱藏版的絕品店家!我一走進店內,就忍不住愛上了環繞著餐廳的優美庭園。「瞬」以一吧檯搭配一大桌方式營造出絕佳的氣氛。使人無比放鬆!午餐採單點形式,晚餐則是由主廚全權配菜的套餐。吧檯區的客人在欣賞主廚現場燒烤香氣無與倫比的鰻魚的同時,也能窺見後面廚房宰殺鰻魚的情景。這對心臟不夠強的人來說或許不會那麼驚悚,只是欣賞時得小心不要靠烤架太近。醬汁有著深厚複雜的鮮味,呈現出不會讓人覺得口味過重的絕佳平衡。烤鰻魚肝及鰻魚湯也很棒。店內設的大張桌子,很適合讓團體在此用餐。

「瞬」所使用的高檔食材,其品質之佳令人印象深刻。這要歸功於餐廳所在的位置鄰近以鰻魚及鋼琴工廠這兩大特色而聞名的濱松市。濱松製造的鋼琴品質也是最上等的。我來自濱松的日本朋友說過,他不會在東京品嚐鰻魚,我想我現在了解其中的道理了。

雖然「瞬」僅靠一對夫婦攜手經營,但店裡的服務可是一流的。老闆娘既親切又十分有效率。我去的時候店內沒有其它外國人,所以老闆夫婦和另一名用餐客人看到我這個洋面孔時顯得有些驚訝。儘管如此,他們的友善與好客卻讓我十分感動。

鰻魚被我列在「盡量避免的食物名單」上,過去幾年我吃鰻魚料理的次數大幅減少,倒不是擔憂這種油脂豐厚的魚類身上很容易累積的重金屬,而是憂心日益減少的鰻魚數量。除了日本及其它仿效日本的國際饕客外,在其它文化中,例如西班牙人,也深愛他們稱做「Angulas(英文為 elvers )」的幼鰻料理,導致過去幾年鰻魚價格高漲及供應量銳減的狀況。照這種速度惡化下去,未來十年內,我們可能很難再看到鰻魚了。即使有海洋生物學上的進展,以及最新的科技,但在養殖鰻魚上,並未獲得真正的成功。所有在養殖場培育的鰻魚都需要從野生饅魚中先取得魚苗。但是野生捕獲的鰻魚數量已減少,而且供應也不甚穩定。就我所知可能僅有「かぶと(Kabuto)」、「天本(Amamoto)」及「照寿司 」(供應巨無霸野生鰻魚堡)三家餐廳有能力定期採購野生鰻魚。

午餐時段店家雖然也接受直接上門的客人,但建議您還是事先預約為宜。考慮到從東京來此的路途遙遠,除非您是個十足鰻魚極客,我不建議您舟車勞頓地前來。但對於那些將大老遠從東京出發、將耗時一整天尋找美食視若公園散步般輕鬆的硬派饕客,「瞬」應該要被列入必訪名單。除此之外,您也可以將一餐安排在「瞬」,另一餐則轉戰「てんぷら 成生(Tempura Naruse )」,好讓這趟靜岡之旅不虛此行。
至於想品嚐鰻魚料理的一般客人,我會建議您偶一為之就好,找一家很棒的鰻魚餐廳,細細品味鰻魚的絕妙滋味。這麼一來,我們的後世子孫或許還有機會也能嚐到美味的鰻魚。

◆瞬(SHUN)
地址:静岡県静岡市葵区有永町260-1
電話:054-294-7178
營業時間:
[午餐] 11:30-14:30
[晚餐] 17:30~21:00
預算:6,000~7,999JPY (午餐) / 15,000~20,000JPY (晚餐)
公休日:星期日

Writer:Localtaste

「Local taste 」早在社群媒體出現之前,就開啟了尋找美食的漫長旅程,從一個城市漫遊至另一個城市,從遠東地區到西方,走過四大洲 160 個以上的城市,在過去 37 年,跋涉超過 400,000 英里的距離。
他在數千個不同的餐廳用過餐,從亞洲的一處牆洞內,一直到巴黎所有獲得米其林3星榮譽的十家餐廳,還花了幾十年的時間在追尋完美的小籠包。
由於他並非從事餐飲相關行業,也不是美食作家,因此您在別處看不到他的文章,tokyotabletrip.com 是唯一獨家刊登 Leo Saito 文章的媒體,以藉此感謝他在幫助各國旅客發掘日本料理之美所做出的無私貢獻。

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guest

Does Shizuoka Shun provide eel bento to take out?

2 年多 ago 1624714197

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guest

Hi, I went to Unagi Shun last week for lunch and got the grilled eel liver and the unaju and I just wanted to give a bit of my personal thoughts on it.

The eel liver I really enjoyed. The unaju however I found not to be exactly my type as I found the unagi less soft or less "melting" compared to some other places. For example one of my favourite unaju is at Tomoei in Odawara (which I don't see mentioned much in this website at all) and unagi is much softer. I have also been to Uomasa and I preferred it to the unagi at Shun. This is not to say it wasn't good of course, I still quite enjoyed the meal at Shun however I'm not sure it is the best for me. Does anyone that have been to Shun share same thoughts as me for their unaju? Is it generally less softer unagi than some other places (because of chef technique?) or could it be just that day.

Thank you

4 年多 ago 1575274287

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localtaste

@memchikatsu good to hear from u. I’m not aware of any Unagi restaurants that worth’s a special trip to Hamamatsu.

My observation would be as same as the same idea I had before exploring in Hokkaido. I thought there would be tons of great dinner options as all tasty fresh seafood are from Hokkaido. I searched many times in a span of more than ten years to find nothing worth a special trip. All best raw materials are shipped to Toyosu. Local restaurants have no dedicated Shokunin like in Tokyo, Kyoto, Kanazawa, Shizuoka, Fukuoka, etc. I could find only food for tourists in the market.

There seems to be respectable Unagi restaurants in Hamamatsu but they are in the city so it’s not something like Hirasansou or Tokuyamazushi kind of restaurant / ambience.

As shipping / transportation improves, it’s not the closest restaurant to the source gets the best raw material.

My recommendation for your Shizuoka trip is lunch at Shun and try getting in Tempura Naruse, which my trustworthy Japanese friend spoke highly about. (I never visit Naruse myself)

Lunch at Shun should fit your bill.

大约 4 年 ago 1582250351

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Menchikatsu

A question for you @localtaste. I will be traveling to Shizuoka in the near future. I was wondering, if it would be worth going further west to Hamamatsu. And if so, is there a particularly noteworthy unagi restaurant to visit there, and sample the freshly caught eels from nearby rivers? It is the source of the very best unagi in the country? It sounded to me like a pilgrimage site for unagi fans. I don't need to be doing a fancy meal at Shun on this trip, but I would like to have some sort of special rustic local unagi fisherman's experience. Thank you. And also to Saito-san, and any others, who have been to Hamamatsu, and have some tips.

大约 4 年 ago 1582180253

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Menchikatsu

@localtaste
I brought up the topic of different regional styles of unagi, to a chef friend of mine who is from Kansai. He told an interesting way to explain the difference between Kanto and Kansai unagi cutting.

That the samurai in Kanto doesn't like seppuku, so unagi is cut from the back side (sebiraki 背開き); while the shogun in Kansai loves seppuku, and so they cut it from the front/stomach (harabiraki 腹開き).

I thought this might have been a joke, but maybe there is some truth to it? That cutting from the front of the unagi resembles stabbing the stomache in seppuku/harakiri, and is like an ominous taboo or superstition. It's a very good way to memorize this, I can't forget it now.

4 年多 ago 1576479207

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