Tokyo Table Trip

Logo discover 8a060a5a25d78a2d81322b0a16884eb1c05869ebadb772a16350e198984e5cfb

關西與關東料理鰻魚的方式各有不同。關西人習慣從腹部切開鰻魚,而關東人則從背部切開。在關東,鰻魚會先經過對切、炙烤,然後蒸煮,之後再次進行炙烤,浸入醬汁,最後成為一道鬆軟的鰻魚料理,反之關西的口感則較為酥脆。但只要料理得當,兩者都各有各的美味。

由於鰻魚本身非常滑溜,因此廚師需要具備相當的技術。我都不覺得我能壓制住鰻魚了,更別提要在短短幾分鐘內宰殺一隻鰻魚。以下這幾家餐廳當中,田代是唯一可讓饕客一窺廚房如何進行宰殺與炙烤的餐廳,膽子不夠大的人,最好在要去田代用餐前知道這件事。

在中部地區的名古屋,鰻魚也是從背部切開的,但只經過炙烤而不蒸煮,然後才以一種稱為「鰻魚四吃」(ひつまぶし,hitsumabushi) 的方式,裝在木桶裡上菜,好讓客人在品嘗前持續保溫。它的吃法分成四步驟:直接吃、搭配海苔等佐料吃、倒進湯或茶當成茶泡飯吃,最後,再以你最喜歡的方式盡情享用。

吉寅 (Yoshitora), 大阪

這家餐廳是由一群和藹但稍有年紀的女士們經營的。她們的熱情深得我心,在這裡吃飯就像和你自家的長輩一起用餐。這裡的鰻魚烤功很棒,醬汁的味道也很均衡。這家餐廳可以容納相當多客人,因此要預約或直接入內用餐都不難。不過早點上門的話,可以大大減少等候時間。

◆吉寅
地址:大阪府大阪市中央区備後町1-6-6
電話:06-6226-0220
交通手段:大阪市高速電気軌道 (Osaka Metro)「堺筋本町」徒歩10分
營業時間:11:00-14:30/17:00-21:30
公休日:星期六、星期日

あつた蓬莱軒本店 (Atsuta Houraiken Honten), 名古屋

あつた蓬莱軒擁有非常悠久的歷史,這家店甚至還將鰻魚四吃註冊為自家的智慧財產。這是一家極受歡迎的餐廳,每到周末的午餐尖峰時間,門口就排起長長的隊伍,有時要等上 2 到 3 個小時才進得去。會如此受歡迎,想必是店家的悠久歷史與合理價格之故,我花了大約 3,600 円就享用到鰻魚四吃特餐了。

餐廳的服務非常專業,而且很有效率,只不過稍微缺乏了小店的魅力。你必須先排隊登記姓名,然後拿到一張候位牌,之後再按照店家安排的時間返回入店。返回之後,你會拿到置放鞋子的號碼牌,然後和一同用餐的人將鞋子一起擺在與候位牌相同的位置,店家接著會在你入店後對照你的姓名。我大約在某個周末下午 16 點抵達,而我的位置大約只讓我等了 30 分鐘。這就是我會挑選在這種不尋常的時間上門用餐的原因。

餐廳距離熱田神宮很近,神宮裡供奉著草薙劍,因此不妨在用餐前後造訪該景點;如果你決定在尖峰時間前往用餐,那也可以在等候期間到神宮一遊。有件事必須留意:除非你願意花超過 14,000 円的價格預訂他們的懷石料理套餐,否則店家不接受預約,你只能直接上門等候。如果你想在尖峰時間上門,也捨得花那樣的高價,那我滿推薦你吃吃看。但是把錢花在他們的懷石套餐,我認為不算太精明,且就我的觀察,大部分客人都會選擇單點料理。他們家的鰻魚很不錯,但還不至於讓我急著到處跟人推薦。店裡的座位設在榻榻米地墊上,這種古雅風格的客席,只剩尾花和玉ひで (Tamahide) 等少數幾家餐廳還會這麼做了。

◆あつた蓬莱軒本店
地址:愛知県名古屋市熱田区神戸町503
電話:052-671-8686
交通手段:名古屋市営地下鉄名城線「伝馬町」徒歩8分
營業時間:11:30-14:00/16:30-20:30
公休日:星期三、第二・四週星期四

鰻富士 (うな富士,Unafuji), 名古屋

鰻富士是一家店面很小的鄰里型餐廳,在當地非常有人氣,這一點從偌大的候位區就能看出來。餐廳裡所有店員都超級友善,而且樂意為你解決困難。我到訪那次,店裡所有客人都是當地人,但是他們卻也提供英文菜單,上面清楚說明如何享用鰻魚四吃。

這家店的鰻魚相當肥美,用鰻魚四吃的方法享用這道佳餚確實是一種享受。在寒冷的夜晚來一套附湯的鰻魚四吃,讓我全身都暖呼呼的。個人來說,如果要吃鰻魚,我會選擇秋天或冬天來吃。鰻魚料理偏油,所以我認為很適合在較冷的天氣吃,不過這和當地人的想法正好相反,他們認為應該在酷暑的熱氣中享用鰻魚。我向來認為竹籠蕎麥麵和味道強烈的朝鮮冷麵才是最合適的夏季美食。我那天點了醋漬鰻魚和小黃瓜當開胃菜,可惜的是烤鰻魚肝 (肝焼き,kimoyaki) 已經賣光了。他們店裡的烤鰻魚肝備的份量不多,我後來有次午餐再次光顧,試著再點一次,結果發現烤鰻魚肝還是賣光了。

◆鰻富士
地址:愛知県名古屋市昭和区白金1-1-4
電話:052-881-0067
交通手段:JR東海中央本線「鶴舞駅」徒歩10分
營業時間:11:00-14:00/17:00-20:00
公休日:星期三、第一・三週星期二

田代 (Tashiro), 瀬戸

我的鰻魚尋味之旅引領我來到瀨戶,這是中部地區一座產陶的城市。如果有人談起瀨戶物 (setomono),他指的就是這座小城市生產的精美陶器。瀨戶距離名古屋大約一小時車程。

田代的午餐時間從上午 11 點開始,晚餐則從下午 16 點開始,但是店家從早上 9 點就開始接受午餐預約了。瀨戶有點偏遠,我認為自己不太可能經常造訪瀨戶,正因如此,既然來到瀨戶了,那我當然不能浪費這個到田代用餐的機會。你可以碰碰運氣,在上午 11 點才抵達餐廳,不過很有可能你要等上兩個小時才能入座。要是運氣再糟一點,有可能等你排到座位時店家已經賣光了,一口氣毀掉你造訪瀨戶的目的。在上午 11 點過後,廚房裡的大廚相當忙碌,因此我認為跑進去探頭探腦可能不太好,尤其我日語又不靈光。

就各種條件來看,我訂下的策略是搶在其他客人之前抵達,所以我選在上午 8:25 來店。訪店的前一晚,我確認過天氣預報,覺得這天就是黃道吉日。要和日本饕客來一場爭搶座席的大戰時,我偏愛挑寒冷多雨的天氣當背景,因為壞天氣真的會擊退非常多客人。

在我到店的時候,內心不禁一沉,因為店家並未開門,而且除了對街的一隻黑貓之外,現場感覺不到有任何人在。我曾經多次造訪這類只接受現場客戶的餐廳,有兩次在成蔵豬排和楽々拉麵 (Rakuraku) 吃到閉門羹,那兩次經驗都是第一次到該店用餐。成蔵豬排沒開的話,那你還有很多替代選項,但換成楽々拉麵,店家開在那種位置,沒開可就是一場災難了。總之,我決定留在店家前面盯梢。剛過 8:30,就有其他客人來了。在不到一分鐘之內,總共有其他 8 位客人排起了隊。這時候,我才終於放鬆,因為當地人最了解店家是否營業。

距離 9 點還有 5 分鐘,大廚開著車出現,然後開始記下客人姓名,我被告知在 11 點時再回來。15 分鐘內,隊伍就解散了。如果有人晚點才來,那可就很吃運氣了,因為入店的客人都是一批一批的,而每批客人可能都要吃上一個小時。

我知道有些人說,在田代等候用餐時沒什麼事可做,但其實那附近有兩間很不錯的神社:深川神社大約距離 5 分鐘步程,這間神社滿值得一訪;另一間窯神神社在距離 15 分鐘的坡道上,這間神社宮供奉的是將製陶技術帶到瀨戶的那個人。此外,附近還有陶器博物館和瀨戶歷史博物館。而在車站和田代之間,也有幾家陶器店可逛,在等候用餐期間,上述活動都可以拿來殺時間。

我在安排的 11 點前 10 分鐘趕回田代,到了 10:55,店家開始引導即將入店的人群按順序排隊。我點了一份特製鰻魚丼 (這裡沒有鰻魚四吃) 和刷上鰻魚醬汁的烤鰻魚肝。我偷聽到隔壁桌的客人也點了烤鰻魚肝,但似乎店家已經賣光了!

在我點的料理上桌時,菜餚看起來美味十足,吃下的第一口,就將我送上鰻魚天國了。他們的醬汁具有一種深厚而絕美的氣味,雖然第一口可能有點強勁。在味蕾習慣這種強勁味覺後,我就一發不可收拾了。這鰻魚肉真是夢幻,而烤鰻魚肝則可列入我吃過的前三名;另外兩家是東京的魚政和靜岡的瞬。

◆鰻富士
地址:愛知県瀬戸市深川町13
電話:0561-82-3036
交通手段:名鉄瀬戸線 「尾張瀬戸駅」徒歩10分
營業時間:11:30-14:00/16:00-
公休日:星期一

元祖本吉屋 (Ganso motoyoshiya), 柳川

年輕的時候,我愛上了柳川鍋,這種火鍋的作法是將泥鰍、牛蒡和壽喜燒汁放進淺鍋中烹煮。從此以後,我一直心心念念想去拜訪柳川。柳川是一座小城市,因為運河和幾家鰻魚料理名店而為人所知。

元祖本吉屋已經開業超過 300 年了,店鋪的建築非常有趣,外觀看起來就很討喜,而美味的鰻魚飄香遠至 300 公尺之外,宛如賽蓮女妖的歌聲召喚著漁夫般勾引著我。店家的招牌菜是蒸籠鰻魚 (うなぎのセイロ蒸し,unagi no seiro mushi),是將鰻魚放在竹籠裡蒸的料理。籠裡的鰻魚裹上店家秘製的金色醬汁,經過反覆炙烤與蒸煮,滋味清爽,每一口都是享受。在結束一趟運河之遊後,請務必來這家美味名店一訪,品嘗享負名氣的鰻魚。

◆元祖本吉屋
地址:福岡県柳川市旭町69
電話:0944-72-6155
交通手段:西鉄天神大牟田線「西鉄柳川」駅徒歩12分
營業時間:10:30-21:00
公休日:星期一

田舍庵 (Inakaan), 北九州

前次我拜訪博多一家相當不錯的割烹料理餐廳,那家餐廳的主廚對田舍庵有很高的評價,說是一家優秀的鰻魚餐廳。田舍庵既是鰻魚料理名店,也可說是小倉市的驕傲。許多老饕都會特地安排旅程到小倉一訪當地的壽司名店,但是國外的旅客卻未必聽說過田舍庵。

田舍庵是一家可容納 80 位客人的大餐廳,它美味的鰻魚和寬敞舒適的座位,彌補了店家稍嫌缺乏的親密感。由於店鋪夠大,午後的等候時間不算太長,此外,我拜訪那次,他們還沒有賣光烤鰻魚肝。一般來說,這道熱門菜餚總是一下就賣光了。我點了一份以竹籠上菜的蒸籠鰻魚,鰻魚肉很柔軟,而醬汁不會太甜,也不會和鰻魚搶味。如果你剛好來到這座城市,且不想要光吃壽司,那麼建議你把田舍庵放進踩點清單裡。

◆田舎庵 小倉本店
地址:福岡県北九州市小倉北区鍛冶町1-1-13
電話:093-551-0851
交通手段:JR九州鹿児島本線「小倉」駅徒歩5分
營業時間:11:00-21:30
公休日:無休

鰻善 (うな善,Unazen), 博多

鰻善是一家小型家庭餐廳,店內只有三桌,每桌可坐大約四位客人,其中有兩桌的座位是地板。店家非常歡迎單人客人入座用餐,雖然店裡有櫃檯座位,但他們卻用來當作上菜區。

鰻善的氛圍非常居家,由一對父子負責廚房裡的工作,而母親和另一位女士則擔任外場工作。他們非常友善,給予我最大程度的溫暖款待。我點了「醋漬鰻魚」(うざく,uzaku),一種以醋浸漬過的鰻魚混合小黃瓜和蔬菜的料理。店家的鰻魚來自鹿兒島,當地有著孕育鰻魚的開放海洋。他們的烤鰻魚香氣十足。我還點了烤野鰻魚肝和特製鰻魚盒飯,他們的醬汁很清爽,每一口我都很享受,優雅的味覺讓我很滿足。他們的招牌菜還有白燒鰻,下次再來我想要試試看。聽人家說,他們家的鰻魚最適合在冬天享用。

要吃這家店一定要預約,而且建議提前 2 個月預約,美味的鰻魚和最棒的熱情款待會是你獲得的回報。

◆うな善
地址:福岡県福岡市中央区高砂1-14-7-1
電話:092-524-3608
交通手段:福岡市地下鉄七隈線「渡辺通」駅徒歩7分
營業時間:12:00-14:00/18:00-21:00
公休日:星期日

總結來說,不管去關西、中部還是九州,選擇上面任一家餐廳都不會踩雷。

如果在名古屋,我的選擇是鰻富士,因為鰻魚美味,等待時間較短,店員對待外國客在內的客人都很友善,而且座位舒適。但如果想感受歷史氣息,體驗專業化的經營方式,而且不介意等待,あつた蓬莱軒會是好選擇。

如果你待在這份清單中的其他城市,想要品嘗鰻魚,我建議根據所在城市挑選這份清單中的餐廳。最後,你或許會好奇哪家鰻魚餐廳才是日本第一。我的答案是瀨戶的田代、靜岡的瞬和東京的魚政。這三家都各佔勝場,難分優劣,因為口味都完全不一樣。田代有碩大的鰻魚,而且醬汁讓人一吃上癮。瞬使用的食材非常高級,而且店裡相當舒適,瞬的晚餐不僅只有鰻魚,也提供割烹料理,當中包括多種不同菜色。魚政的鰻魚很柔軟,醬汁非常特別。個人而言,如果非要我挑出一家,那麼我完全不會耗費心力猶豫,就會選擇田代。如果你是真正的鰻魚饕客,這家店絕對值得朝聖。

我漫長的鰻魚尋味之旅已經橫跨多年了,但在這趟旅程中,我並不讓太多鰻魚白白犧牲,因為我大幅降低了吃鰻魚的比例,這麼做的原因是飼養鰻魚並非永續產業,而且鰻魚產量已開始劇烈衰退,所以我只選擇自己信賴的店家。要吃鰻魚的話,最好不要去普通的店家。我的建議是,吃鰻魚要節制,或者只在特別的日子挑一家好店揮霍一下,這樣我們的下一代也才能繼續享用美味的鰻魚。

Writer:Localtaste

「Local taste 」早在社群媒體出現之前,就開啟了尋找美食的漫長旅程,從一個城市漫遊至另一個城市,從遠東地區到西方,走過四大洲 160 個以上的城市,在過去 37 年,跋涉超過 400,000 英里的距離。
他在數千個不同的餐廳用過餐,從亞洲的一處牆洞內,一直到巴黎所有獲得米其林3星榮譽的十家餐廳,還花了幾十年的時間在追尋完美的小籠包。
由於他並非從事餐飲相關行業,也不是美食作家,因此您在別處看不到他的文章,tokyotabletrip.com 是唯一獨家刊登 Leo Saito 文章的媒體,以藉此感謝他在幫助各國旅客發掘日本料理之美所做出的無私貢獻。

Add a comment

  • Add photos

Comments Icon comments 20b52f1dd59ace07b92433da2a385e6f7392eb2937032eebc2a0bd0b67c69516 5


marksound

Do you have any tips for unagi in Kyoto? Thanks :)

16 天 ago

Icon thumbup c50a5e69a172939d8f181c07defd87a40f8b5ea08aa95e4f5248647e539d2f91 Like!
Icon rply g 931a7da4f2fb72f6c47b91ce1a6ff6f0d639792b78b042247406a09dbc121382 Reply 3
Aaue7mbnqck0clok b3ujg8 bzpctbp37245abqiam4j s50

Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

They are my favorite, too.

16 天 ago
Picture?width=100&height=100

marksound

Great, thanks! Will get the hotel to call when I arrive and try for lunch.

16 天 ago

localtaste

Update (2020) - Tomoei (うなぎ亭 友栄) in Odawara, Tomoei is one of the top Unagi restaurants and highly revered by the local. Tomoei doesn’t accept seat reservation so it’s better to be there early as I found eel might run out long before the closing hour so arriving late hour before closing is no longer a good strategy. Nothing is worst than going all the way to odawara and the shop runs out of eel.

21 天 ago

Icon thumbup c50a5e69a172939d8f181c07defd87a40f8b5ea08aa95e4f5248647e539d2f91 Like!
Icon rply g 931a7da4f2fb72f6c47b91ce1a6ff6f0d639792b78b042247406a09dbc121382 Reply 1
User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

guest

@localtaste @localtaste however, the good news is that you can reserve the eel (not the seat) so u can enjoy the eel without any disappointment. When u get there, u still have to join the queue on first come first serve basis.

In addition to grilled eel with tare, their shirayaki is very enjoyable and you can savor the eel. This is their chef’s recommendation and ideal for any eel connoisseur.

To reserve eel, please let the shop know below info:

1 eel details
2 your name and phone number
3 time of arrival so they know roughly when u would arrive. (Not for booking your lunch slot)

When u arrive, just tell them your name and details. Hope this is helpful for people who wish to try Tomoei.

21 天 ago

guest

Hi, amazing article, thank you! However I was also looking forward to see Tomoei in Odawara included as I never see it mentioned anywhere on this website and is one of the best unagi on tabelog. How would you rank it against all the shops you mentioned? Same level as Shun, Uomasa and Tashiro?

3 个月 ago

Icon thumbup c50a5e69a172939d8f181c07defd87a40f8b5ea08aa95e4f5248647e539d2f91 Like!
Icon rply g 931a7da4f2fb72f6c47b91ce1a6ff6f0d639792b78b042247406a09dbc121382 Reply 7
User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

guest

Odawara is not in the Kansai, Chubu, and Kyushu regions, that's why.

3 个月 ago
User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

guest

OK, thanks. But amongst comparisons with your favorite unagi restaurants (Tashiro, Shun, Uomasa) how would you compare or rank Tomoei in there?

3 个月 ago
User default d6f8776075bbcbf91b3886fd7b0aeb86c94956e290bd9b9223466618a8cd47a2

guest

He wrote "which unagi restaurant is the best in Japan." And these are his top 3, with Tashiro as his personal #1. Then you might guess Tomoei could be in 4-10.

3 个月 ago
Eab8dbbd 6732 4948 b852 ca447c818547

localtaste

@guest my apology. I must have confused TTT editorial team wih my multiple many drafts. I wrote the first cut some time ago, originally, it was Kansai only. Then, I added Chubu. Subsequently, I also added Kyushu. My final draft also included Kanazawa. Actually, I searched in Okinawa and Hokkaido as well but I found no Unagi restaurants worth mentioning. However, I wrote an article some time ago, before ryukyu castle was on fire, for TTT readers who might keen to hear about dining experience in Okinawa.

3 个月 ago
Eab8dbbd 6732 4948 b852 ca447c818547

localtaste

@guest here’s the bit on Kanazawa.

“In sum, you can’t go wrong with one of these restaurants in Chubu, Kansai and Kyushu, depending on where you are. I should mention that they all are different from Tomoei, the famed eel restaurant in Kanagawa whose eels were maintained in controlled water for optimum taste. Eel at Tomoei is both soft and fluffy which could be cut with chop sticks without any effort. If you are in Mount Fuji area, do stop by Tomoei for their famous eel. Reservation isn’t necessary not accepted. I would just arrive in the afternoon but not too close to the closing time.”

3 个月 ago
Eab8dbbd 6732 4948 b852 ca447c818547

localtaste

@guest thank you for the question how tomoei fares against others. In my opinion, my short answer is that tomoei is in top of its own category. I think it’s unfair to say which one is better. For what u have been looking for, tomoei is probably one of the best.

There’s the best restaurant but the caveat is the best restaurant according to who. Each entity got different criteria, weight of each attribute, and personal preference. Let me ask these questions:
1. Is Malaysia durian or Thai durian better?
2. Are pasta best cooked thoroughly or still undercooked at the center (al dente)?
3. Is USDA beef or Wagyu better? Is it also better than Hanwoo?
4. Is chicken dish better using the breast or more knuckles part?
5. Is clear soup or thick soup better?
6. Is pasta best with AOP, white sauce, or tomato sauce?
7. Is the best ramen Shio ramen, tonkotsu, or shoyu ramen?

The answer will show or at least give clue where u are from, your past dining experience, and your personal preference.

If u have read my article eg best sushi in Japan, u would find that I don’t have the absolute ranking, but ranking in each category as I feel it’s impossible to compare across category / style. I would said uomasa, shun, tashiro, and tomoei are one of the best in its category.

When evaluating Unagi restaurants, I look at these:
1. Rice - properly cooked.
2. Unagi - Plumb, fresh, no odor, thickness, etc
3. The grilling skill - in Kanto style, it has to be soft and fluffy, in Kansai, it has to be crisp and good bite.
4. Sauce - complex and with depth, not too sweet. For the lighter sauce with more natural taste, it has to be elegant and compliment the Unagi.
5. Sauce viscosity has to match the taste profile and Unagi
6. Serving temperature or both rice and unagi
7. Cutting & skewing has to be right for each style. The cut will affect the texture and mouthfeel. U can see from Kabuto photo that they keep the length, skew along the body while Tashiro cut into pieces. I got the video but posting video here isn’t possible.
8. Aroma
9. Plating
10. Balance and harmony of all of the above.
11. Consistency. I visited some of these restaurants more than once. I always look for consistency as well.

Each restaurant has its own source which effect the taste. e.g. Kagoshima, Hamamatsu, etc.

Hope this helps.

3 个月 ago
Blackglasses1

Menchikatsu

@localtaste In my younger years eating unagi... the rice, after the sauce from the unajyu had soaked into it, was the part I most looked forward to. Still is, in some ways, hard not to think of that as the main event. Although now, I look more to the quality of the actual eel.

In your evaluating section, #10 is one of the five major criteria of the Michelin inspector, and I think the one most chefs don't even know about or understand. #6 is a surprising red flag for them, if it comes to the table cold. The second part of your #4 seems to go hand in hand with #10: none of the present elements distracting from each other.
Actually, many of these are subsections of their 5 main criteria: attempt at mastery of cooking, ingredient sourcing, balance in equilibrium/harmony, consistency over time. The only one you've left off is creativity/personal touch. I can see your depth of experience in this list.

3 个月 ago

ChuToroZuke

What a fantastic read of the different regional styles of unagi! Thank you for sharing your valuable experiences with us!

3 个月 ago

Icon thumbup c50a5e69a172939d8f181c07defd87a40f8b5ea08aa95e4f5248647e539d2f91 Like!
Icon rply g 931a7da4f2fb72f6c47b91ce1a6ff6f0d639792b78b042247406a09dbc121382 Reply 1
Eab8dbbd 6732 4948 b852 ca447c818547

localtaste

@ChuToroZuke thank you again for your kind words. I hope it’s helpful.

3 个月 ago

Leo Saito

chief editor, TokyoTableTrip

Localtaste who crossed the islands of Japan in search for tasty unagi releases a new article! Amazing content! Do take a look!

3 个月 ago

Icon thumbup c50a5e69a172939d8f181c07defd87a40f8b5ea08aa95e4f5248647e539d2f91 Like!
Icon rply g 931a7da4f2fb72f6c47b91ce1a6ff6f0d639792b78b042247406a09dbc121382 Reply 0